Heartbeat of Havana

Nine years have passed since my last visit to Havana. I was so enthralled by this romantic city that on my return I wrote the novel One Kiss in Havana. I've yet to find a better setting for a book.

Riding the Malecon in a Buick

Havana is a rhythm, a heartbeat that either resonates with you or pounds with a loud din.  

It's difficult not to be passionate about this place. I am sitting in the back of a vintage red Buick and wondering why I left it so long to return. Luis is driving the car that takes me from Miramar to the old town and he joyously informs me that he works for himself. Wearing a cowboy hat, sunglasses and a wide smile he explains that his father was handed down this car from his father. Pre 1959 Cars were one of the few possessions that the population were allowed to own after the Revolution. Luis works it from dawn to dusk giving the government $100 CUC (Cuban convertible pesos) per month as well as 10% of everything that he earns. The Cubans have a two tier currency - CUCs for the tourist population and purchasing luxury items and the peso for use by the general population. Luis has embraced this new way of doing business but goes on to tell me that on the down side he has to pay for his own gas.

The streets are more carefully manicured than I remember and the sweeping water-fronted Malecon is looking exceptional clean and freshly painted. The president, Raul Castro and Unesco have put a huge amount of investment in to maintaining the city's unique architecture. The roads however are still potholed and this means Luis takes the car on a bumpy, zigzag course. "You sometimes get a massage for free in this car," he jokes. He takes my photo before I pay him $20 and then merrily sets off, adding that he hopes someday to own a Honda!

At the Cathedral Cristobel

The famous Bodegita del Medio, where Hemmingway enjoyed his Mojitos is the very same as it was in 2006 and I fruitlessly search for my signature on the blue walls, covered by years of graffiti. It's an impossible task so this time I take a photo to remind me where I sign my name. Many authors and musicians have passed through these doors including the great Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

My mojito at the Bodegita del Medio

As I make my way along Calle Obispo I'm startled by the subtle changes, there is an industrious air about the locals that was not there before. Some things however do not change and toiletries are still rationed so I bring along a bag filled with shampoo and soap from my hotel room and distribute them to passersby along with some pens. Even sachets of hotel room coffee are greatly appreciated.  Calle Obispo runs from Parc Central to the Malecon and is a good indicator of how the old town is doing − the stink is gone so maybe there have been renovations to the sewer system too.  I pop in to see the Ambos Mundos Hotel where Hemmingway lived from 1932 to 1939 and anyone can visit his room which is maintained in its original state for $5.

Nao restaurant Paladeras

At Cristobel Cathedral old ladies still wear white turbans and long lace dresses as they sell knitted dolls. I stop off in Nao, one of the new breed of self owned paladares (restaurants set in local homes) and am instantly impressed by the welcome and decor. "It's happy hour," the barman Johnny says. He insists that I sit at the bar and drink a Mojito, while a trio of musicians serenade. Although there are only six tables set, it is cosy and the menu offers a wide range of delicacies including octopus and rabbit. Johnny says the fish they use is all freshly taken off the fishing boats every morning. Like Luis his enthusiasm for his work is in complete contrast to the laid back service I found in the state owned restaurants in the past.

Cuban transport

With a little sadness I leave Havana next day to explore more of the countryside.  This agrarian landscape is how I imagine rural Ireland must have appeared to visiting Americans in the 1950s and 60s. I pass small shacks, tumbledown houses with a slap of paint here and there and goats and hens roaming the gardens. The fields vary in size and undulate in most cases as the tractors are saved for the larger centrally owned farms. It's common to find tall palm trees standing in the middle of a field.

It is a four hour bus ride to Cayo Coco and the archipelago of wetlands that make up the Jardins Del Rey, named The Gardens of the King by Columbus after his arrival in Cuba. These mangroves are joined to the mainland by a seventeen kilometre causeway. The Melia group have opened a new four star all-inclusive resort with the same name and it has prime location on the unspoilt waterfront.  This is a much smaller resort than the more widely visited Varadero beach. A white sandy beach runs along the back of the hotel. Every little comfort is included in the hotel package as Pedro and his donkey patrol the beach handing out beers and soft drinks to the hard-pressed sunbathers.

portable bar, the Melia at Cayo Coco

Next day I take a trip with Gaviota tours on a Catamaran. As we set sail wild dolphins swim past. This is the Caribbean at its best. The catamaran anchors close to a coral reef and it's time for snorkelling. These are the moments that I will dream about on rainy winter days. As the warm breeze kisses my cheek and the velvety turquoise sea beckons I take a sip from my Cuba Libre and smile. This cocktail of White Rum and Cola was given its name by Americans who flooded the country after the expulsion of the Spanish in 1898. Ideally the mix of the Cuban Rum and American Coke symbolised the new free Cuba, hence the name Cuba Libre. But it wasn't the case as Cuba became a playground for rich Americans. However after the revolution headed by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara some staples remained and this drink is one of them.

A week is easy to fill by the beach if a sun holiday is what you want but I'm on my way to Santiago de Cuba so I start the long voyage via my next stop at the city of Camaguey. This is a clean and beautifully preserved city. It is different from Havana with more surreys and bicycles than old Cadillacs.  The winding labyrinth of streets, hide a cornucopia of talented artists exhibiting their work and an abundance of clay pots that the city is famous for. That night I stay at Santa Lucia where the waters are bath temperature and shallow. I check in at the lively Brisas resort and embrace the beach. Reluctantly next day I set off by bus and the roads become more sporadic − many have evolved into mounds of clay. It is rainy season but the rains haven't travelled down to this part of the countryside yet and there are serious concerns about the drought.

Camaguey

The journey through the spine of Cuba is fascinating as the locals pile in and out of cooperative cars. Every horse and cart is packed to capacity and good humour accompanies the travellers as they set off. My next stop is Holguin where the local beers Cristal and Bucanero are brewed. The landscape changes the further south I travel and bumps rise out of the landscape. This city is crowned with a sacred site and terrific viewpoint from Loma de la Cruz. I pay homage to patron St Lazarus temple at the foot of a large cross and breath in the panoramic view.

Holguin

The rest of the journey towards Santiago de Cuba involves passing through El Cobre and the contrasting mountainous landscape. Cuba's second town has similar attractions to those found in Havana and is celebrating its 500th year since the Spanish founded it. The Tropicana cabaret is a wonderful excursion and the dancers come out into the crowd and perform the conga at the end of the show. The Casa de la Musica has a venue in Santiago de Cuba also and many of the original Buena Vista Social Club hailed from this town. San Pedro de la Roca Morro Castle has one of the best views over the city so I stop and dine in El Morro restaurant and sit in Paul Mc Cartney's chair which has been engraved since his visit. It's pointless to compare the cities any further without getting into a Dublin Versus Cork style debate. Santiago de Cuba is a beautiful city that stands alone and has the unique advantage of being the original site where Castro declared the socialist state on January 1st 1959.

The balcony in Santiago de Cuba, from where Fidel declared the revolution in 1959

It is over 900 Kilometers from Santiago de Cuba back to Havana so I take an ATR42 with Cubanacan tours back to the capital. This island, the biggest in the Caribbean will not be ignored. Change will come to Cuba as the doors open and embargo is lifted however I think this change will be slow. My advice is to get there before it does.

At the Tropicana

Michelle Jackson is author of One Kiss in Havana published by Poolbeg Press and available on www.amazon.co.uk for more information see www.michellejackson.ie

Factfile

For more information about Cuba see www.travel2cuba.co.uk

Air France flies from Dublin to Havana via Paris with return fares starting from €812 including all taxes and fees. For more information and to book, visit www.airfrance.co.uk.

Havana & Varadero twin centre holiday, 9 nights from €1689 (per person based on 2 people sharing)
2 nights at the 4-star Melia Cohiba, Havana & 7 nights at the 4-star Melia Peninsula Varadero,
Includes flights from Dublin to Havana via Paris with Air France, all transfers to, from & between hotels, breakfast in Havana & all inclusive in Varadero.
Valid for selected September 2015 departures.  

Trailfinders Tailormade Holidays:  Dublin 01 677 7888, Cork 021 464 8800 & Limerick 061 292 700  http://www.trailfinders.ie/

California Dreaming!

Published in the Sunday World Magazine 7th June 2015

Our dream car from Sixt Car rental on the Pacific Coast Highway

A Family Road Trip could well be a recipe for disaster, especially with a wifi obsessed teen and tween. So, I make sure that our route from Los Angeles to San Francisco is dotted with internet friendly hotels. Our trusty steed is a comfortable Volvo jeep from Sixt car rentals − it's easy to book online and organise its return to an alternate city. 

The Pacific Park fairground at Santa Monica

The journey starts at Santa Monica as we check-in to the super trendy Shore Hotel. We are offered a glass of champagne on arrival and slip out to the pool with the best view on Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue. There's so much more to this town than pristine beaches. Third Street Promenade hosts great stores and eateries with sculpted dinosaurs and animal trees. We hire bikes from Perry's Cafe which has rentals dotted along Ocean Front Walk. As we take the winding bicycle path to Venice Beach my daughter Nicole is instantly swayed towards the henna tattoos. 

Venus Beach by bike

A cacophony of buskers, Bob Marley and entertainment from a $5 freakshow beckon, but we keep peddling. We are part of bohemia and this teenage heaven gets a cool thumbs-up.
Back on Santa Monica Pier there's lots to do at the retro Pacific Park fairground complete with wooden rollercoasters and the absolute end of the road signpost for route 66. Inspired by the body builders and svelte-like models on rollerskates whizzing past, we take the healthy option to eat at the True Food Kitchen. Mouth-watering smoothies with Kale and mangos wash down our grass-fed-beef burgers.

The end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier

Bus tour of LA is best way to get around

A bus tour is the best way to get our bearings in the sprawling LA metropolis. We take the long established Starline Tours red route from the Chinese theatre. Rodeo drive is a decadent display of over indulgence and even the Pretty Woman factor doesn't entice us to get off the bus. Instead the kids love the upbeat graffiti covered stores on Melrose and funky eateries like Pinks Hot Dogs. We spend ages walking along Hollywood Boulevard while the kids search for their favourite stars. California is theme park paradise and we opt for Universal Studios. We jump on the newest rollercoaster rides and end up drenched at some old jewels like Jurassic Park and the stunt show Waterworld. We move in to the city centre next night to stay at the Radisson Midtown Hotel situated close to Staples Centre. I bought tickets on line for a Lakers basketball game and we find ourselves rubbing shoulders with the kid's favourite actor, Will Ferrell.

At Universal studios

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Fess Parker hotel in Santa Barbara

One night isn't enough in this cosy haven that smacks of old Andalucia but we set off again. 'Look at the lovely wine-gardens,' the tween points out on the road to San Luis Obispo. Our hotel at Apple Farm is fantastic for families and we are greeted on arrival with a glass of local wine and warm chocolate chip cookies. 

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Bubblegum Alley San Luis Obispo

The rooms in our family suite are adjoined and cosy, decorated with vintage-apple-crate design. Downtown San Luis is home to Bubblegum Alley − my daughter informs me that her favourite Youtubers have been here. We can smell the sweet sickly stench of chewed gum as we approach it. Some people choose to leave notes and other mementos attached to their gum but my crew just stick a blob on the wall. Ideal for families SLO boasts the stunning Pismo Beach and famous Hearst Castle nearby. We get up early next morning to eat breakfast at Morro Bay.

Lovely Apple Farm hotel San Luis Obispo

 A mound protrudes just outside the harbour like a giant weathered sandcastle that the tide forgot to take out and a skateboard museum amuses the kids for a while. As we cruise along Big Sur the kids never once ask, 'Are we nearly there yet?' The waves are a shade of turquoise blue that only the ocean can mix up. Big Sur is more a state of mind or rite of passage than a destination and we are delighted that the kids 'get it!' We stop at a gallery and restaurant for a chance to ponder the glorious three hour drive we have taken.

Cannery Row in Monterey

We are fully in our stride as we cruise in to Monterey and John Steinbeck country. Yes, Cannery Row is a 'tourist trap' but no longer 'a stink' as described by the author of the same novel. Instead the profuse aromas of warm chowder and homemade ice-cream fill the air. Monterey Bay Aquarium is a thrill for the kids and the little sea otters give displays of affection as they twist and turn on to their backs. The colourful jelly fish are a must see. Later we dine at the delicious Beach House restaurant at Lovers Bay − named after the religious pilgrims who came to this site to pray rather than the other kind of lovers.

Moneterey Bay Aquarium

Beach house restaurant in Monterey

Next morning I insist that my teen gets to know Steinbeck, after all he has read The Pearl. We eat lunch at Steinbeck House where the author was born and lived as a boy. It is lovingly preserved and run by the volunteers of Valley Guild who have created a welcoming restaurant. With appetites sated, the Steinbeck Center is only a stone's throw away on Main Street, Salinas. Here the author's work comes to life as we are treated to memorabilia and clips from the movies East of Eden and the Grapes of Wrath amongst others. I have to be dragged away by the family from my homage and ninety minutes later we are driving in to San Francisco. The San Remo hotel is over 100 years old and houses the atmospheric Dior d'Italia restaurant which has been around since1886. We are serenaded by wonderful live jazz as we dine on authentic Italian cuisine.

Entertainment at the San Remo Hotel

Shopping in Chinatown

There is so much to do in San Francisco it’s difficult to choose. Alcatraz is a must see and the audio tour takes us through every step of the cell-block. It's pricey but book online to avoid the queues. Later we hire bikes to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take in the overwhelming views of the bay and Marin County. Muir Woods, with Redwood trees stretching over 250 feet high is a great way to spend the day on the other side of the bay. We stop off in Mill Valley for lunch, a nice alternative to the bustling Sausalito.

Tram in San Fran

The Westin St Francis Union Square

We move into the Westin St Francis Hotel − an iconic landmark in Union Square and close to Westfield shopping centre with all the brands kid's love. It’s a stone's throw from Chinatown and probably the best location in the city. Our rooms are comfortable and modern - everything expected from a leading four star property. 

At the Golden Gate Bridge

Our CityPass assures entry into the main attractions including all transport options. We take a wooden tram from outside our hotel down to Pier 39 and dine at Pier Market restaurant. The fun packed Exploratorium and Madame Tussauds fill up the next day and all too soon we've reached the end of the road. 

Shopping in San Fran is great fun!

CityPass for SoCal and San Francisco can be purchased at www.CityPass.com

SoCal CityPass includes entry into the four big theme parks.

San Francisco CityPass includes all transport systems and entry into key attractions

Sixt Car rental 'Rent Luxury Pay Economy' see Website: http://www.sixt.com/car-rental/usa/santa-monica-ca/santa-monica-ocean-avenue

To get started go to www.sanfrancisco.travel and www.discoverlosangeles.com

Sightseeing Bus Tours see www.starlinetours.com

The Shore hotel, Santa Monica www.shorehotel.com

Radisson midtown http://www.radisson.com/los-angeles-hotel-ca-90007/cafiguer

For more about San Luis Obispo www.slo.org

To stay at Apple Farm www.applefarm.com

Moneterey www.seemonterey.org

To learn more about The Steinbeck House see http://steinbeckhouse.com/

For more on The San Remo Hotel see www.Sanremohotel.com

For information on Muir woods visit www.marincounty.com

The Westin St Francis Hotel website is at http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin

Flight details:

United Airlines will launch a daily nonstop service between Dublin and its Chicago hub, O'Hare International Airport, during the period Jun 5th, to Aug 18th (both dates westbound)

The lead in fare to LAX (through Chicago) and home from SFO (through Newark) ex Dublin - €620.25 per person. This includes the tax and fuel surcharge. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252. 

Narnia isn't all that far away - it's in Belfast!

A Voyage of Discovery in Belfast with CS Lewis

Nicole with the searcher statue dedicated to CS Lewis, do you spot a certain wardrobe?

Every city has its literary giants and Belfast is no exception. Authentic Ulster promotes a tailormade CS Lewis tour which takes a fascinating three hours.  While my 11 year old daughter, her friend and I enjoy the wisdom of our entertaining guide Sandy Smith, we discover that the mountains at Cavehill provided the inspiration for one of the most famous giants in literature. 

Cavehill is visible from several parts of the city and resembles the profile of a giant lying on his back. Sandy informs us that while Jonathan Swift was visiting Belfast and looking at the same mountain he found inspiration to create the character Gulliver. It's the perfect start to the tour, as we stand at the site where the young Clive Staples Lewis spent his early childhood. My daughter is already enthralled without the need of a flashing screen or interactive exhibit. The Chronicles of Narnia is undoubtedly the series that CS Lewis is best known for and Sandy is quick to question the children in our group about The Lion the Witch and The Wardrobe. He then takes us to Lewis's Grandfather's house which was the rectory attached to St Marks Church. 

We stand at the front door and see that the young Lewis would have been at eye level to the beautifully moulded door knob − the head of a lion. The wardrobe story is next and we are taken to Belmont Tower which is only around the corner. A permanent exhibition holds all the information needed to become proficient in the CS Lewis story. Here we learn it was Lewis's other grandfather, who worked at the Harland and Wolfe shipyards, that crafted the famous wardrobe where he used to play hide-and-seek as a child.

I'm surprised the girls enjoy the educational part of our trip so much but it's time for something completely different. We Are Vertigo is an adventure zone with trampolines and ski to keep kids busy on a rainy day. All that jumping gives the girls huge appetites and we are ready to taste some of the best cuisine in Belfast. Graze restaurant on the Newtownards Road is a gem with a menu to suit all tastes. The girls opt for a steak and mini burgers while I'm sent to nirvanha as the scallops melt in my mouth. Graze has a really good wine list and they play excellent music too.

We spend the night in the Hastings Stormont Hotel on plump pillows and mattresses. After our hearty breakfast, where I pop a drop of Bushmills in my porridge, we set off for W5. The girls scale the new Climbit exhibit a little too quickly but they have to be dragged out of the Go exhibits. If you're thinking of taking the kids up to Belfast for the day to see the Titanic or W5 I recommend staying the night and finding the other attractions unique to the city. The Mac at St Annes Square is another cultural experience which just might surprise and you won't go wrong by eating in 4th Wall − a funky restaurant with great service, it's good for lunch and only across the square from the MAC. But the real takeaway is that the girls want to call to the library on the way home to find a certain book!  

Michelle Jackson is the author of Six Postcards Home published by Poolbeg Press. For more information see www.michellejackson.ie follow @mjacksonauthor

To experience the CS Lewis Tour visit www.authenticulster.co.uk ,

For activities see www.wearevertigo.com, www.w5online.co.uk Follow the Northern Ireland tourist @DiscoverNI  or see www.discovernorthernireland.com

Go on spoil yourself - holiday like a Celebrity!

Celebrity Cruises News

I'm a massive fan of cruising and was lucky enough to travel on this 

glorious ship in 2014. Celebrity Cruises offer something different - 

a larger ship with more amenities but maintains privacy and luxury. 

It is a true five star brand and worth saving up for that special occasion. 

Check out the wonderful destinations on offer too on their website below. 

Celebrity is branching out with amazing destinations that include Alaska 

and Asia and I for one would love to take the middle eastern cruise 

across the Indian Ocean to Goa.

Celebrity Cruises’ iconic “X” is the mark of modern luxury, with its cool,
contemporary design and warm spaces; dining experiences where
the design of the venues is as important as the cuisine; and the
amazing service that only Celebrity can provide, all created to
provide an unmatchable experience for vacationers’ precious time.
In addition to offering vacations visiting all continents, Celebrity
also presents immersive cruisetour experiences in Alaska,
 Australia/New Zealand, Canada, Europe and South America.
One of the fastest-growing major cruise lines, Celebrity is one
of five cruise brands operated by global cruise vacation company
Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. (NYSE, OSE: RCL). Celebrity Cruises’
 fleet currently consists of eleven ships, including the brand new
 Celebrity Reflection. In Celebrity we have found one of the best cruises.

Although every passenger onboard a celebrity cruise receives
premium customer care, Celebrity have recently gone above and
beyond the call of duty and launched a 'Suite Class experience'

Discerning guests who desire the very best in modern luxury
holidays are now able to indulge in Celebrity Cruises' new
'Suite Class' experience. This will be fully introduced on Celebrity
Cruises' state-of-the-art ships during April 2015. With exclusive
new benefits including a suites-only restaurant, VIP lounge,
 complimentary premium drinks and more, the newly launched
 Suite Class is designed to create the ultimate luxurious experience.
Guests will enjoy incredible service from the moment they arrive with
their personal butler taking care of every detail. This is the only way to travel.

From the one-of-a-kind Reflection Suite, with its jaw-dropping ocean
views and unique cantilevered shower, to the stylish Sky Suites,
Celebrity Cruises' exceptional Suite Class experience is designed
to set the standard in modern luxury holidays around the world.

The new Suite Class will include:

Private dining – A dedicated private restaurant reserved exclusively
for all Suite Class guests will be available morning, noon and night.
Each meal will feature unique menus that offer sumptuous dishes
not available anywhere else onboard. Guests can truly immerse
themselves in the local culture with specially crafted menus inspired
by the local destination, and enjoy the world's best ingredients.
Memorable and inspiring dishes will be served, from locally caught
seafood, to the freshest pasta. The Suite Class chef can provide a
tailor-made experience to suite guests and prepare a dish to their
liking, and the Cellar Master - Celebrity Cruises' head sommelier -
will select from more than 450 wines to provide the perfect pairing.

Premium 'all in' benefits - Premium drinks, dining across all specialty
restaurants, unlimited internet access and a private bar with water,
soft drinks and beers will all be complimentary for guests staying in
Royal, Penthouse and Reflection suites.

VIP lounge - A private VIP lounge, Michael's Club, will be available
to guests staying in Celebrity, Signature, Royal, Penthouse and
Reflection suites. A dedicated Concierge service and unique food
and beverage experiences by Celebrity Cruises' James Beard-featured
chef will be provided to guests.

"Our guests are accustomed to exceptional quality and service,
and for those wishing to further indulge in the very best while
onboard we have launched 'Suite Class', specially designed to
appeal to the most discerning holidaymaker,” said Michael Bayley,
President and CEO, Celebrity Cruises. “We know that suite guests
value privacy, personalised service, exclusive access and flexibility,
and providing them with their own unique benefits, such as a dedicated
restaurant with a dining experience like no other, is just another way that
we are significantly elevating the guest's holiday with us."

Suite guests will also continue to enjoy a large number of 
benefits including:

The Celebrity 'Suite Class' welcome - Guests will receive
priority check-in and embarkation

Legendary butler service - From unpacking guests' luggage to
 booking the best destination experiences on land, the Suite Class
butler will be on hand 24 hours a day to ensure seamless, dedicated
and personalised service.

The Suite Class experience will also include a daily high-end 
afternoon tea service served in the guest's spacious and
beautifully designed suite.

Luxurious stateroom amenities and benefits –
As well as enjoying spacious suites with balconies that
showcase sweeping ocean views, guests can indulge in a
variety of luxury amenities including deluxe Bulgari bathroom
amenities, plush robes, premium bedding and an indulgent
pillow menu. A host of other extras will also be provided
during the guest's stay including reserved theatre seating
for all Suite Class guests.

For more information or to book call 
1800 932 611 or visit Celebrity Cruise 
www.celebritycruises.ie

Cannery Row in Monterey....

Old sardine factory now converted

Cannery Row in Monterey is no longer a stink, as the author John Steinbeck portrayed this once important centre of sardine fishing. Steinbeck's novel Cannery Row is 70 years old this year and this part of Monterey was the source for his own literary inspiration. I'd been warned that Cannery Row is over commercialised without a trace of the world that Steinbeck immersed himself so many decades ago but I have to say in my excitement that I wasn't disappointed.

Monterey Bay and Cannery Row

The strip of road that is now maintained with comfortable hotels and bijou eateries and boutiques is peppered with atmosphere. Maybe it is the romantic in me that easily conjures up images of John Steinbeck and his friend the marine biologist, Ed Rickets shooting the breeze over the cool blue bay.

Steinbeck statue

Formerly Wang chung market

One of my favourite stops is the souvenir store formerly called Wang Chung Market - I picture Steinbeck's character Lee Chong behind the counter serving out some 'old tennis shoes whiskey' but in his place could well be his pretty Asian great-grand-daughter selling crystals and incense.

The stench that Steinbeck wrote about has wafted across the bay and is replaced by the smells of chocolate, warm waffles and creamy chowder. My children are fascinated by the ice cream store and want to explore the Aquarium. It's a spacious building that draws us gently through the history bit and in to the real action. The sea otters, sharks and touch pools abound and it's a place where the whole family get lost for an hour.
We dine at Lover's Point and our host at the Beach House restaurant informs us that the lovers who came here in the nineteenth century were Christians who choose this spot to praise the Lord. The view is spectacular and food of the high standard we have come to expect as we have travelled up the Pacific Coast Highway.

At the Beach House Monterey

The Monterey Bay area is filled with places to pay respects to the great author John Steinbeck and only a twenty minute journey from Salinas, the town where he was born and spent a much of his life. The main street is now home to the Steinbeck centre which is well worth a visit with artefacts that the author owned. Including the truck that he used in his travels across the country with his poodle Charley. The house where he was born is now a restored and much loved restaurant run by dedicated local people who give their time freely to ensure its continued upkeep. The food is delicious and the family are wrapped up with nostalgic mementos that we will be able to take with us back home.

The room where Steinbeck was born

Steinbeck House and restaurant

Steinbeck house

The land around Salinas is known as the salad bowl of america. Fields stretch into the manicured yonder ending at the lilac tinted mountains in the distance. It's still very much the beautiful rural land that attracted so many from the dust bowl in the thirties. The curator at the Steinbeck Centre tells me that his grand-father came from Oklahoma during those years as we pass by the display for the Grapes of Wrath. California is in its fourth year of drought and this year heralds another very dry summer. Steinbeck's thought provoking novels and messages appear to be just as relevant today and they were when he wrote them. It is wonderful to see his legacy respected and accessible for literary fans who chose to visit from all over the world.

Taking the kids to the Steinbeck Center is the perfect way to bring literature to life.

For more information visit the The Monterey Visitors Bureau at this website see monterey
The Beach House restaurant website http://www.beachhousepg.com/
Don't miss out - visit The Steinbeck House - http://steinbeckhouse.com/
The visitors centre is on Main Street Salinas http://www.steinbeck.org/