Evergreen in the Everglades! The Wild side of Florida!

When I tell the kids that we are going on a 3G (Three Generations) holiday, they eye me suspiciously. My tween asks if this means she'll have extra credit to Snapchat her friends while we are away. But my teenage son cops that Granny and Granddad will be coming along. As if this isn't a big enough challenge I decide to make our 3G holiday a road trip. A fine balancing act begins on my part to choose a family friendly destination and itinerary, so it has to be Florida.

With great excitement and a little trepidation we take our Virgin Atlantic flight via Heathrow to Miami.  I booked our carhire online before leaving home, with Hertz, so a Jeep SUV awaits us, equipped with GPS and plenty of room for luggage. Service at the desk is prompt and efficient and we make it to the Biltmore Hotel in beautiful Coral Grove in about forty-five minutes.

The Biltmore Hotel is an icon of early twentieth-century-style and architecture, tucked away in a salubrious residential neighbourhood. The hotel was used as a hospital during the Second World War but on arrival it has the hallmarks of the decadent twenties, with colourful little birds in giant cages and fine artwork on the elaborate architraves. The Biltmore hotel boasts one of the biggest swimming pools in the state of Florida − surrounded by roman statues it has the ambience of an Italian Palazzo.

That night we dine at the hotel's Fontana restaurant with a full moon and the stars above our heads. The elders devour the lobster ravioli and sea bass and I've to stop the kids from licking the last morsel of lasagne from their plates. We sit around the fountain until the jet lag hits the kids and we go to our luxurious rooms, leaving granny and granddad some time to get romantic. As my head hits the pillow I cannot wait to explore Miami the next day.

Miami is blocked into several neighbourhoods with little Havana being one of the most famous, here the Cafe Versailles is similar to the many Paladeras found in the Cuban capital. Men drink coffee and play dominoes on the side of the street and it's worth a drive by.

Our next stop is South Beach and the kids love the view, with rollerbladers and fitness gurus lining the promenade. I hire bikes with the kids and Granddad, while Granny goes for coffee at one of the classic art deco hotels. It's easy to see why this strip has been called the American Riviera.

With an afternoon to fill we drive for an hour and wind up in Key Largo, the largest of the Florida Keys. I know the family won't make the long drive to Key West so we stop off at the highly recommended John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. This is America's first underwater state part and it boasts wonderful snorkelling on the coral reef and a one-hundred-mile long shipwreck trail. The kids get to see tropical fish in the crystal blue waters while granny and granddad watch from the quayside. The annual Humphrey Bogart festival is a draw for romantic movie buffs and the actual African Queen boat rests at a nearby hotel.

Next morning after devouring the breakfast buffet at the Biltmore we take Highway One up to Fort Lauderdale. The scenery is peppered with hotels, tall palms and turquoise blue sea making it a scenic drive. It takes just over three hours and a few ice-creams and toilet breaks to get to our next stop, Vero Beach. Also known as 'The Hamptons of Florida' we check-in at the Kimpton Vero Beach Hotel and Spa. This boutique hotel is modern and clean with extra-friendly hotel staff. As we sit down to enjoy lunch with the cobalt blue Atlantic in the background, the kids have already taken to the pool. Vero Beach offers Golf close by for Granddad and Kayaking for the kids. Granny loves the quaint shops and galleries and I realise that one night won't be enough in this lovely town.

We leave Vero Beach reluctantly but stop off en-route to Orlando at a unique eco-tourism attraction, Forever Florida. This picturesque centre is host to a cattle ranch, a wildlife conservation area and a beautiful location perfect for outdoor adventures perfect for all the family, especially teens. The horse-riding is well supervised and organised and there is no better way to see wildlife in its natural habitat. Check out www.foreverflorida.com for more information and prices are roughly €100 for a two hour ride through the wilderness.

Our hotel in Kissimme is the Omni Resort at Championsgate and close to all the Disney attractions, but my crew opt for something a little wilder at Boggy Creek airboat rides on Lake Toho. We find ourselves in the middle of the Everglades, spotting storks, bald eagles and herons on the swamp. This experience is gentle enough for granny and fun enough for the kids, but it's noisy so we put on ear muffs. Our guide, Captain Wayne, has a knack for spotting alligators, and he points at one in the rushes to everyone's delight. An airboat ride is a must do when in Florida so check out www.bcairboats.com.

We return invigorated from our excursion and the kids are keen to enjoy the hotel. The pool is great for all kids big and small but the best fun is the lazy river. Attended by pool staff until 10pm it's ideal for an after-dinner-swim. The kids go up and down the slide too many times to count and the basketball ring seems to be getting as much use from the parents as the kids. I hear plenty of Irish accents too.

Next day our plan is to shop and the Orlando Vineland Premium Outlets are only a tempting 20 minutes away. Part of the Simon Group, the outlets offer big brand saving from 25%-65% on high street prices. We leave granddad by the pool while I find amazing value and my daughter finds that the superstar runners she has been longing for are only $80 − that's over 100% saving on the Irish price for the same runners. The Premium Outlets are a great way to spend the afternoon and my fashion-conscious-son gets T-shirts while I settle for some designer accessories which would be a lot more expensive at home.

Granny wants to go somewhere relaxing for dinner after all that shopping, so we set off for the town of Celebration (yes that's its real name) and sample the tasty Cuban cuisine at Columbia Restaurant. This picture-perfect town has been likened to the movie set of The Stepford Wives and apparently was modelled on Main Street Disney World. 

It's almost too perfect for me but it gets a massive thumbs up from the other generations. With Universal and all the major theme parks beside us I'm pleased that we have taken the time to taste the wilder side of Florida and keeping on the move was great for the kids. If you are thinking of a 3G family holiday make sure Granny and Granddad get some time on their own and most importantly ensure that the hotels offer free WIFI, when travelling with the younger generation there are times when this will be a saviour for all.

www.experiencekissimmee.com

www.visitflorida.com

Hertz car hire mid-size SUV, pick up Miami Airport, drop off Orlando Airport

For five nights from €280 at www.hertz.co.uk

For retail therapy in Orlando see http://www.premiumoutlets.com/outlet/orlando-vineland

www.biltmorehotel.com

www.verobeachhotelandspa.com Kimpton hotel at Vero Beach

www.omnihotels.com/hotels/orlando-championsgate

Tour America

Florida Fly/Drive Package holiday €989 per person

Return flights into Miami and returning from Orlando, All taxes and charges

2 Nights accommodation Aloft South Beach

2 Nights accommodation Vero Beach and Spa Hotel

3 Nights Rosen Shingle Creek Orlando

Car Hire 

Based on 2 adults & 2 kids sharing

Date of departure: November 2016

Our Ref: 512647

www.touramerica.ie

email: sales@touramerica.ie

Tel: Dublin 01-8173535 Cork 021-2429222

Travels with Charley and the family!

I was rooting through some books that I Haven't finished because of my travels and I came across the very wonderful Travels with Charley by none other than the brilliant John Steinbeck. I bought my copy while I was at the authors family home, pictured above, in the town of Salinas, California. My children posed patiently while I ranted and and raved my way around the house where Steinbeck spent his most formative years. The lovely local people of Salinas have turned this house into a restaurant with homemade food and it's pretty much packed out all year round. In the basement is a treasure trove of books and memorabilia for fans to purchase and take home while the Steinbeck foundation continues to flourish on its proceeds.

Travels with Charley is about a road trip that the author took around the United States with his pet poodle Charley for company in a small camper van - which is on display in the Steinbeck museum in downtown Salinas. The museum boasts authentic artefacts from the authors life and is well worth a visit if you are in the San Francisco area this summer.

But back to the book and Steinbeck writes beautifully about the characters he meets as he traverses the states and different habits and cultural ways of the people who live there. In his journey across Illinois he meets up with his wife again and while he tells of his time on Lake Michagin I'm reminded of the lovely people that I met at the Travel Media award from the Great Lakes. I haven't explored this part of the Midwest and it's my intention to do something about it on my next trip to the states. I had a great chat with Bill from visit Detroit and I'm curious to hear more about his city which seems to be the comeback kid at the moment after a horrible few years with the collapse of the motor industry and city bankruptcy!

Travel Media awards at the Westbury Hotel 20th May 2016

The Travel Media awards are an annual event where the irish media vote for thier favourite travel brands and operators and this year there were three new peer awards. The Novel Traveller was nominated in the category best new Irish Travel blog and came runner up on the day. I was in the lovely company of two other runners up at Stena Line and Tourism Northern Ireland.

The Lovely Diane Poole from Stena Line was great company
and I look forward to travelling on one of her ships soon.

I look forward to travelling on Stena in a few weeks time when I'll be hoping to find my epic in Wales. The lovely people at visit Wales are promoting lots of adventure attractions this year, so I may well be hanging from a zip line or worse in June!

Laurence Duffy from Duffy Rafferty was there to represent Tourism Northern Ireland
while the rest of them were all at the golf in the K Club!

I was in the company of the Fabulous flamboyant people from the Spanish Tourist Board on Thursday when I, along with a host of media and tour operators, was entertained by flamenco music and opera while we ate dinner in the Dining Hall of Trinity College. I was chatting to representatives of the Andalucian region and particularly taken by the Almeria region which provided the setting for the great film maker Sergio Leone when he made the Clint Eastwood classics The Good the Bad and the Ugly and other spaghetti westerns. This region and the beautiful city of Seville are on my list for this year.

The man of the day at the Travel Media awards was Jim Murty, editor of the Irish Daily Mail
who picked up the award for being a pleasure to deal with.
I can vouch for that as he published my feature on Florida!

Finally my travel feature about the Wild side of Florida was published on 21st May in the Irish Daily Mail. I will be putting it up on my blog soon!
Happy travels and reading
Michelle X

There's no place like home...Kansas!

The Wizard of Oz usually springs to mind at the mention of Kansas but this summer I set off with my Dad who is passionate about the Wild West to discover what the Sunflower state has to offer the discerning traveller. We found an enchanting destination with a call of the wild!

Our Kansas adventure started the moment we landed at Wichita airport. Regarded as the airplane capital of the world and home to names like Cessna, Beech and Boeing makes it a must for aviation enthusiasts. We flew from Dublin with United Airlines via Newark and after a short transfer into Wichita city my arrival was cushioned by a warm welcome at the Ambassador Hotel. After a delicious dinner we were just in time to see the lighting of the lamps at the iconic 'Keeper of the Plains' statue. This 44 feet statue of an Indian Chief stands majestically at the meeting of the Arkansas Big and Little Rivers. Every night at sunset flames shoot from the urns at the foot of the keeper for fifteen minutes, dramatically lighting the night sky. As we arrived the confluence was buzzing with visitors and locals to see this almost spiritual experience.

Next day we swung by Old Cow Town, a perfectly reconstructed Wild West village which whet my appetite for my stay at the Moore Ranch in Bucklin. This ranch is where the famous advert for Marlboro Cigarettes was shot in the 1980s. Long horn Texan cattle abound the mid-grass prairie and hosts Joe and Nancy Moore immediately make their guests feel like part of the family. That includes dining at the family ranch and helping with the chores like feeding the orphaned lambs and calves. It's a job that proved a joy for a city slicker like me and my Dad being a lover of the countryside felt right at home.  

Morning means time to check on the cattle and their calves. My choice of horse for the chore was a steady white who was kind and despite my nerves carried me out to the fields with confidence. This is not a dude ranch, this is the real deal. Joe set off next day to Colorado to sell a dozen head of cattle and while we rode the range there were fences to fix. Accommodation is chalet style and set about 100 yards from the main house. Each chalet is equipped with an en-suite and air conditioning. But to truly enjoy the experience forget the luxuries of a mint on your pillow, what the Moore's offer is something unique and missing from the generic experiences we have become accustomed to in mainstream hotels. www.moorelonghornranch.com

Nancy Moore and my Dad holding down a steer

Feeding the calves at Moore Ranch with Will the ranch hand

The guest cabin at Moore ranch

My dad was in his element at the Long Branch Saloon

With great reluctance we left the Moores after two days and promised to return for a week next time. It was a forty mile drive to my next destination, Dodge City. The town's motto is 'Get the heck into Dodge' and it was a great chance to explore real cowboy history. The main street has been reconstructed as it was in the 1840s. Once a major stop off for the cowboys who herded the cattle from one end of the country to the railroad in Abilene and the Sante Fe trail, it is now a city of 50,000 that holds firmly to its cowboy heritage. It is also great fun. The Long Branch Saloon, made famous in the popular TV series Gunsmoke, hosts a nightly show with a staged gunfight on the street outside followed by a performance from the legendary Miss Kitty and her Can Can dancers. See www.visitdodgecity.org for more details of this fun town.

Miss Kitty dancers at Long Branch Saloon

At Boot Hill Cemetary Dodge City

Dodge is also home to a spectacular casino for those who fancy a flutter. It is next door to a Hilton Hampton hotel where we conveniently stayed before setting off for Great Bend the next day. Great Bend is a large town next to one of the states greatest treasures − The Byways and Wetlands. Our wildlife adventure started at Cheyenne Bottoms, a massive marsh land hosting flocks of pelicans, terns and unusual seabirds that use the area as a stopover on their journey from coast to coast. The area is well signposted for tourists but it is a good idea to pay a visit to the Wetlands Educational Centre beforehand to know what to look out for.

At Cheyenne Bottoms

The great salt lakes of the prairie make up Quivira national park where we spotted deer frolicking and a mischievous coyote out for a gander. Binoculars are a must on this excursion and ornithologists will find a little bit of heaven as Cormorants, Herons and Hawks soar past. Close by we enjoyed a spectacular lunch at Heartland Farm which is run by a group of Dominican Sisters. The sisters keep Alpacas and serve delicious home grown organic food. They offer incredible budget accommodation in a wonderful setting and for a true retreat from a technology busy world this place is perfect www.heartlandfarm-ks.org.

Our visit to Kansas was perfectly timed to fit in the Symphony in the Flint Hills annual festival. In its tenth year the theme this time was 'Grasslands of the World' and the Flint Hills can proudly be named as one of these. Home to the greatest expanse of grassland in the United States, where the buffalo roamed freely until their demise in the 1870's, the Flint Hills can best be described as lush green countryside with gently undulating green hills that beckon to be discovered on horseback. It compares admirably to the Mongolian and Patagonians grasslands and dare I suggest even the Serengeti. The wildlife may be more subtle than the species found in Africa but the sense of freedom and air of majesty was comparable. 

The Symphony in the Flint Hills - the cows gathered from surrounding prairie to listen to the music

The headline act for the tenth festival was Lyle Lovett, better known perhaps as ex-husband to Hollywood actress Julia Roberts. The music flowed with orchestral arrangements of Out of Africa and Silverado, finished off with the Grammy award winner's country tunes. In the distance herds of cattle gathered around the stage to show their approval and had to be ushered away from the stage. Another truly unique experience in this land filled with surprises.

Heading west to east we drove through the picturesque town of Lindsborg. Populated by Swedish immigrants in the 1800s it is as much a piece of Sweden today as the land that the immigrants left. Blue flags with yellow crosses wave from poles along the main street in unison with the Star Spangled Banner. This town is extremely desirable to live in with beautiful art galleries and studios. The award winning National Geographic photographer, Jim Richardson, shows his extraordinary work in the Small World Gallery and studio. It sits beside the lovely dala horse shop where the souvenir wooden horses are sculpted in all sizes and painted by hand in a traditional and unique fashion. Check out www.lindsborgcity.org for more details.

Giant Dala horse in the Swedish style town of Lindsborg

Dad and I were fascinated by this jewel of a town in the middle of the prairies

The Sandzen Gallery

I continued on my journey east and a short ten miles from the university city of Lawrence is the delightful Circle S Ranch. This haven is home to a herd of buffalo and long horn cattle, but it is also a very desirable County Inn which hosts wedding parties all year around. Each room is themed and I was led to the exquisite 'blue and white room' which boasted four windows and a Victorian free standing bath in the corner of the room. At night the fireflies put on a show, dancing like fairies from branch to branch in the surrounding fields. Dinner was good enough to be given a Michelin star with creamy mash, Mediterranean veg and marinated beef that didn't require chewing. I was overall impressed with the choice of eateries in Kansas and the option to find quality rather than the usual preference of quantity in the mid states. See www.circlesranch.com for more details.

My beautiful room at Circle S ranch with a victorian bath behind the screen!

All set for a wedding at Circle S ranch

Kansas is also home to the pioneering adventurer Amelia Earhart and after travelling the state for a week I realised that I needed more time to see everything. There aren't too many references to Dorothy or the Wizard of Oz but the Museum of Oz is in Wamego and situated between Lindsborg and Lawrence. However I can now understand Dorothy's attachment to her homeland and see why she was so keen to get back there.

I clicked my heels three times and found myself on a United Airlines Boeing 757 with the comfort of extra legroom for a mere €60. Dining was refreshingly good for economy with three course servings and constant refreshments available throughout the flight. I was home with a fresh view of the Wild West and a rejuvenated spirit.

Published in The Irish Country Magazine October 2015, credit to Irish Farmers Journal publications.

Factbox

For more information see www.travelksok.ie

For packages see www.AmericanHolidays.ie or call Dublin 016994232

Flights

United Airlines offers a service from Dublin to Kansas City International Airport via its New York hub, Newark Liberty International Airport and Washington, D.C. hub, Dulles International Airport operated by Boeing 757-200 aircraft featuring 169 seats - 16 flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst® and 153 in United Economy®, including 45 Economy Plus® seats with added legroom and increased personal space. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252

Fares

Fare start from €970  incl tax for travel outbound between 1NOV - 17DEC and 25DEC - 31MAR

Fare start from €1050  incl tax for travel outbound between 23 AUG - 31 OCT and 1APR 24JUN

Fare start from €1293  incl tax for travel outbound between 25JUN - 22AUG

Fares are non-refundable and changes are permitted with a fee of €130 per transaction.

Heartbeat of Havana

Nine years have passed since my last visit to Havana. I was so enthralled by this romantic city that on my return I wrote the novel One Kiss in Havana. I've yet to find a better setting for a book.

Riding the Malecon in a Buick

Havana is a rhythm, a heartbeat that either resonates with you or pounds with a loud din.  

It's difficult not to be passionate about this place. I am sitting in the back of a vintage red Buick and wondering why I left it so long to return. Luis is driving the car that takes me from Miramar to the old town and he joyously informs me that he works for himself. Wearing a cowboy hat, sunglasses and a wide smile he explains that his father was handed down this car from his father. Pre 1959 Cars were one of the few possessions that the population were allowed to own after the Revolution. Luis works it from dawn to dusk giving the government $100 CUC (Cuban convertible pesos) per month as well as 10% of everything that he earns. The Cubans have a two tier currency - CUCs for the tourist population and purchasing luxury items and the peso for use by the general population. Luis has embraced this new way of doing business but goes on to tell me that on the down side he has to pay for his own gas.

The streets are more carefully manicured than I remember and the sweeping water-fronted Malecon is looking exceptional clean and freshly painted. The president, Raul Castro and Unesco have put a huge amount of investment in to maintaining the city's unique architecture. The roads however are still potholed and this means Luis takes the car on a bumpy, zigzag course. "You sometimes get a massage for free in this car," he jokes. He takes my photo before I pay him $20 and then merrily sets off, adding that he hopes someday to own a Honda!

At the Cathedral Cristobel

The famous Bodegita del Medio, where Hemmingway enjoyed his Mojitos is the very same as it was in 2006 and I fruitlessly search for my signature on the blue walls, covered by years of graffiti. It's an impossible task so this time I take a photo to remind me where I sign my name. Many authors and musicians have passed through these doors including the great Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

My mojito at the Bodegita del Medio

As I make my way along Calle Obispo I'm startled by the subtle changes, there is an industrious air about the locals that was not there before. Some things however do not change and toiletries are still rationed so I bring along a bag filled with shampoo and soap from my hotel room and distribute them to passersby along with some pens. Even sachets of hotel room coffee are greatly appreciated.  Calle Obispo runs from Parc Central to the Malecon and is a good indicator of how the old town is doing − the stink is gone so maybe there have been renovations to the sewer system too.  I pop in to see the Ambos Mundos Hotel where Hemmingway lived from 1932 to 1939 and anyone can visit his room which is maintained in its original state for $5.

Nao restaurant Paladeras

At Cristobel Cathedral old ladies still wear white turbans and long lace dresses as they sell knitted dolls. I stop off in Nao, one of the new breed of self owned paladares (restaurants set in local homes) and am instantly impressed by the welcome and decor. "It's happy hour," the barman Johnny says. He insists that I sit at the bar and drink a Mojito, while a trio of musicians serenade. Although there are only six tables set, it is cosy and the menu offers a wide range of delicacies including octopus and rabbit. Johnny says the fish they use is all freshly taken off the fishing boats every morning. Like Luis his enthusiasm for his work is in complete contrast to the laid back service I found in the state owned restaurants in the past.

Cuban transport

With a little sadness I leave Havana next day to explore more of the countryside.  This agrarian landscape is how I imagine rural Ireland must have appeared to visiting Americans in the 1950s and 60s. I pass small shacks, tumbledown houses with a slap of paint here and there and goats and hens roaming the gardens. The fields vary in size and undulate in most cases as the tractors are saved for the larger centrally owned farms. It's common to find tall palm trees standing in the middle of a field.

It is a four hour bus ride to Cayo Coco and the archipelago of wetlands that make up the Jardins Del Rey, named The Gardens of the King by Columbus after his arrival in Cuba. These mangroves are joined to the mainland by a seventeen kilometre causeway. The Melia group have opened a new four star all-inclusive resort with the same name and it has prime location on the unspoilt waterfront.  This is a much smaller resort than the more widely visited Varadero beach. A white sandy beach runs along the back of the hotel. Every little comfort is included in the hotel package as Pedro and his donkey patrol the beach handing out beers and soft drinks to the hard-pressed sunbathers.

portable bar, the Melia at Cayo Coco

Next day I take a trip with Gaviota tours on a Catamaran. As we set sail wild dolphins swim past. This is the Caribbean at its best. The catamaran anchors close to a coral reef and it's time for snorkelling. These are the moments that I will dream about on rainy winter days. As the warm breeze kisses my cheek and the velvety turquoise sea beckons I take a sip from my Cuba Libre and smile. This cocktail of White Rum and Cola was given its name by Americans who flooded the country after the expulsion of the Spanish in 1898. Ideally the mix of the Cuban Rum and American Coke symbolised the new free Cuba, hence the name Cuba Libre. But it wasn't the case as Cuba became a playground for rich Americans. However after the revolution headed by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara some staples remained and this drink is one of them.

A week is easy to fill by the beach if a sun holiday is what you want but I'm on my way to Santiago de Cuba so I start the long voyage via my next stop at the city of Camaguey. This is a clean and beautifully preserved city. It is different from Havana with more surreys and bicycles than old Cadillacs.  The winding labyrinth of streets, hide a cornucopia of talented artists exhibiting their work and an abundance of clay pots that the city is famous for. That night I stay at Santa Lucia where the waters are bath temperature and shallow. I check in at the lively Brisas resort and embrace the beach. Reluctantly next day I set off by bus and the roads become more sporadic − many have evolved into mounds of clay. It is rainy season but the rains haven't travelled down to this part of the countryside yet and there are serious concerns about the drought.

Camaguey

The journey through the spine of Cuba is fascinating as the locals pile in and out of cooperative cars. Every horse and cart is packed to capacity and good humour accompanies the travellers as they set off. My next stop is Holguin where the local beers Cristal and Bucanero are brewed. The landscape changes the further south I travel and bumps rise out of the landscape. This city is crowned with a sacred site and terrific viewpoint from Loma de la Cruz. I pay homage to patron St Lazarus temple at the foot of a large cross and breath in the panoramic view.

Holguin

The rest of the journey towards Santiago de Cuba involves passing through El Cobre and the contrasting mountainous landscape. Cuba's second town has similar attractions to those found in Havana and is celebrating its 500th year since the Spanish founded it. The Tropicana cabaret is a wonderful excursion and the dancers come out into the crowd and perform the conga at the end of the show. The Casa de la Musica has a venue in Santiago de Cuba also and many of the original Buena Vista Social Club hailed from this town. San Pedro de la Roca Morro Castle has one of the best views over the city so I stop and dine in El Morro restaurant and sit in Paul Mc Cartney's chair which has been engraved since his visit. It's pointless to compare the cities any further without getting into a Dublin Versus Cork style debate. Santiago de Cuba is a beautiful city that stands alone and has the unique advantage of being the original site where Castro declared the socialist state on January 1st 1959.

The balcony in Santiago de Cuba, from where Fidel declared the revolution in 1959

It is over 900 Kilometers from Santiago de Cuba back to Havana so I take an ATR42 with Cubanacan tours back to the capital. This island, the biggest in the Caribbean will not be ignored. Change will come to Cuba as the doors open and embargo is lifted however I think this change will be slow. My advice is to get there before it does.

At the Tropicana

Michelle Jackson is author of One Kiss in Havana published by Poolbeg Press and available on www.amazon.co.uk for more information see www.michellejackson.ie

Factfile

For more information about Cuba see www.travel2cuba.co.uk

Air France flies from Dublin to Havana via Paris with return fares starting from €812 including all taxes and fees. For more information and to book, visit www.airfrance.co.uk.

Havana & Varadero twin centre holiday, 9 nights from €1689 (per person based on 2 people sharing)
2 nights at the 4-star Melia Cohiba, Havana & 7 nights at the 4-star Melia Peninsula Varadero,
Includes flights from Dublin to Havana via Paris with Air France, all transfers to, from & between hotels, breakfast in Havana & all inclusive in Varadero.
Valid for selected September 2015 departures.  

Trailfinders Tailormade Holidays:  Dublin 01 677 7888, Cork 021 464 8800 & Limerick 061 292 700  http://www.trailfinders.ie/

California Dreaming!

Published in the Sunday World Magazine 7th June 2015

Our dream car from Sixt Car rental on the Pacific Coast Highway

A Family Road Trip could well be a recipe for disaster, especially with a wifi obsessed teen and tween. So, I make sure that our route from Los Angeles to San Francisco is dotted with internet friendly hotels. Our trusty steed is a comfortable Volvo jeep from Sixt car rentals − it's easy to book online and organise its return to an alternate city. 

The Pacific Park fairground at Santa Monica

The journey starts at Santa Monica as we check-in to the super trendy Shore Hotel. We are offered a glass of champagne on arrival and slip out to the pool with the best view on Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue. There's so much more to this town than pristine beaches. Third Street Promenade hosts great stores and eateries with sculpted dinosaurs and animal trees. We hire bikes from Perry's Cafe which has rentals dotted along Ocean Front Walk. As we take the winding bicycle path to Venice Beach my daughter Nicole is instantly swayed towards the henna tattoos. 

Venus Beach by bike

A cacophony of buskers, Bob Marley and entertainment from a $5 freakshow beckon, but we keep peddling. We are part of bohemia and this teenage heaven gets a cool thumbs-up.
Back on Santa Monica Pier there's lots to do at the retro Pacific Park fairground complete with wooden rollercoasters and the absolute end of the road signpost for route 66. Inspired by the body builders and svelte-like models on rollerskates whizzing past, we take the healthy option to eat at the True Food Kitchen. Mouth-watering smoothies with Kale and mangos wash down our grass-fed-beef burgers.

The end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier

Bus tour of LA is best way to get around

A bus tour is the best way to get our bearings in the sprawling LA metropolis. We take the long established Starline Tours red route from the Chinese theatre. Rodeo drive is a decadent display of over indulgence and even the Pretty Woman factor doesn't entice us to get off the bus. Instead the kids love the upbeat graffiti covered stores on Melrose and funky eateries like Pinks Hot Dogs. We spend ages walking along Hollywood Boulevard while the kids search for their favourite stars. California is theme park paradise and we opt for Universal Studios. We jump on the newest rollercoaster rides and end up drenched at some old jewels like Jurassic Park and the stunt show Waterworld. We move in to the city centre next night to stay at the Radisson Midtown Hotel situated close to Staples Centre. I bought tickets on line for a Lakers basketball game and we find ourselves rubbing shoulders with the kid's favourite actor, Will Ferrell.

At Universal studios

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Fess Parker hotel in Santa Barbara

One night isn't enough in this cosy haven that smacks of old Andalucia but we set off again. 'Look at the lovely wine-gardens,' the tween points out on the road to San Luis Obispo. Our hotel at Apple Farm is fantastic for families and we are greeted on arrival with a glass of local wine and warm chocolate chip cookies. 

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Bubblegum Alley San Luis Obispo

The rooms in our family suite are adjoined and cosy, decorated with vintage-apple-crate design. Downtown San Luis is home to Bubblegum Alley − my daughter informs me that her favourite Youtubers have been here. We can smell the sweet sickly stench of chewed gum as we approach it. Some people choose to leave notes and other mementos attached to their gum but my crew just stick a blob on the wall. Ideal for families SLO boasts the stunning Pismo Beach and famous Hearst Castle nearby. We get up early next morning to eat breakfast at Morro Bay.

Lovely Apple Farm hotel San Luis Obispo

 A mound protrudes just outside the harbour like a giant weathered sandcastle that the tide forgot to take out and a skateboard museum amuses the kids for a while. As we cruise along Big Sur the kids never once ask, 'Are we nearly there yet?' The waves are a shade of turquoise blue that only the ocean can mix up. Big Sur is more a state of mind or rite of passage than a destination and we are delighted that the kids 'get it!' We stop at a gallery and restaurant for a chance to ponder the glorious three hour drive we have taken.

Cannery Row in Monterey

We are fully in our stride as we cruise in to Monterey and John Steinbeck country. Yes, Cannery Row is a 'tourist trap' but no longer 'a stink' as described by the author of the same novel. Instead the profuse aromas of warm chowder and homemade ice-cream fill the air. Monterey Bay Aquarium is a thrill for the kids and the little sea otters give displays of affection as they twist and turn on to their backs. The colourful jelly fish are a must see. Later we dine at the delicious Beach House restaurant at Lovers Bay − named after the religious pilgrims who came to this site to pray rather than the other kind of lovers.

Moneterey Bay Aquarium

Beach house restaurant in Monterey

Next morning I insist that my teen gets to know Steinbeck, after all he has read The Pearl. We eat lunch at Steinbeck House where the author was born and lived as a boy. It is lovingly preserved and run by the volunteers of Valley Guild who have created a welcoming restaurant. With appetites sated, the Steinbeck Center is only a stone's throw away on Main Street, Salinas. Here the author's work comes to life as we are treated to memorabilia and clips from the movies East of Eden and the Grapes of Wrath amongst others. I have to be dragged away by the family from my homage and ninety minutes later we are driving in to San Francisco. The San Remo hotel is over 100 years old and houses the atmospheric Dior d'Italia restaurant which has been around since1886. We are serenaded by wonderful live jazz as we dine on authentic Italian cuisine.

Entertainment at the San Remo Hotel

Shopping in Chinatown

There is so much to do in San Francisco it’s difficult to choose. Alcatraz is a must see and the audio tour takes us through every step of the cell-block. It's pricey but book online to avoid the queues. Later we hire bikes to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take in the overwhelming views of the bay and Marin County. Muir Woods, with Redwood trees stretching over 250 feet high is a great way to spend the day on the other side of the bay. We stop off in Mill Valley for lunch, a nice alternative to the bustling Sausalito.

Tram in San Fran

The Westin St Francis Union Square

We move into the Westin St Francis Hotel − an iconic landmark in Union Square and close to Westfield shopping centre with all the brands kid's love. It’s a stone's throw from Chinatown and probably the best location in the city. Our rooms are comfortable and modern - everything expected from a leading four star property. 

At the Golden Gate Bridge

Our CityPass assures entry into the main attractions including all transport options. We take a wooden tram from outside our hotel down to Pier 39 and dine at Pier Market restaurant. The fun packed Exploratorium and Madame Tussauds fill up the next day and all too soon we've reached the end of the road. 

Shopping in San Fran is great fun!

CityPass for SoCal and San Francisco can be purchased at www.CityPass.com

SoCal CityPass includes entry into the four big theme parks.

San Francisco CityPass includes all transport systems and entry into key attractions

Sixt Car rental 'Rent Luxury Pay Economy' see Website: http://www.sixt.com/car-rental/usa/santa-monica-ca/santa-monica-ocean-avenue

To get started go to www.sanfrancisco.travel and www.discoverlosangeles.com

Sightseeing Bus Tours see www.starlinetours.com

The Shore hotel, Santa Monica www.shorehotel.com

Radisson midtown http://www.radisson.com/los-angeles-hotel-ca-90007/cafiguer

For more about San Luis Obispo www.slo.org

To stay at Apple Farm www.applefarm.com

Moneterey www.seemonterey.org

To learn more about The Steinbeck House see http://steinbeckhouse.com/

For more on The San Remo Hotel see www.Sanremohotel.com

For information on Muir woods visit www.marincounty.com

The Westin St Francis Hotel website is at http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin

Flight details:

United Airlines will launch a daily nonstop service between Dublin and its Chicago hub, O'Hare International Airport, during the period Jun 5th, to Aug 18th (both dates westbound)

The lead in fare to LAX (through Chicago) and home from SFO (through Newark) ex Dublin - €620.25 per person. This includes the tax and fuel surcharge. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252.