We are heading to Cuba this #TravelTuesday on TV3's Midday

Cuba is probably my favourite place on earth. It has a vibe that is different to the other Caribbean Islands, and left such an impression on me after my first visit ten years ago that I set my third novel there. One Kiss in Havana was such fun to write because as I took my characters back to the places that I had visited, I relived my own holiday all over again.

The town of Holguin

Here's the link to my feature from the Irish Mail on Sunday about my return trip to Cuba last year Cuba article - Irish Mail on Sunday May 2015

I never thought I'd sit on a Cow!

One of the quaintest towns that we passed through was Cojimar and This is the place where Hemingway used to go to fish and found inspiration for The Old Man and the Sea. The bar where he used to drink, La Terraza, is still going strong. From Havana in the north-west to Santiago de Cuba in the south-east, this country has some of the warmest kindest people that I've had the pleasure to meet.
Of course there are also the white sandy beaches, salsa rhythms and Havana Club Rum - once you've had your first Havana Club mojito you won't want it made with any other rum. Tourism is crucial for the Cuban economy and the government are very aware of this since the American embargo was imposed.

Nao paladeras in Old Havana

However, since Raul Castro introduced free enterprise, I noticed a huge change on my return visit to Havana last year. Locals have set up their own cab companies and they are the most amicable, happy taxi drivers you will find in the world. Do chug along in one of the vintage 1950's cars that take visitors to the old town. The locals have opened their homes to even more paladeras, restaurants and B&Bs with the best food to be found and wonderful hospitality.

So yes, be sure to see the Hotel Nacional and the Bodegita Del Medio where Hemingway went to drink his mojitos. But the real Havana is found all around in the streets and bars. The transition is coming but like everything else in Cuba, it won't happen quickly

I've put together some Special Offers  to Cuba from various operators to entice you!

Tour America have a great deal for a family holiday

10 nights in Cuba from only €1359pp! Price Includes: Return Flights to Havana with Virgin Atlantic - all taxes and charges includedPrivate Return Airport Transfers10 nights Hotel Accommodation in the 4* Iberostar Taino Based on two adults and two children sharingTravel 10th October 2016Reference 515968Call 01-8173562www.touramerica.ie 

Sunway Travel
For reservations contact Sunway on 01-2311800 or book online on www.Sunway.ie

G Adventure Cuba Tours:

In the Ambua Mundos hotel where Hemingway lived. His room is as he left it

Cuba Libre

8 days from €1779pp

Walking through the pincushion hills, wandering amongst orchids and lush mountain coffee plantations—see another side of the island on this week-long tour through the ‘Garden Province’ of Cuba. Tour a tobacco plantation, snorkel crystal-clear waters full of colourful coral and search for the pirates of lore along the Guanahacabibes Peninsula. Soak up local culture in a homestay for an immersive experience that travellers rarely get to know. Let our experienced CEO lead you off the beaten path and discover the cultural treasures of Cuba.

Outside La Terraza in Cojimar

Visit: Havana, Viñales, María la Gorda, Las Terrazas,

Highlights:

·         Cigar factory tour (Pinar del Rio)

·         Cabo San Antonio excursion including Roncalí Lighthouse

·         Beach time (María La Gorda)

·         Las Terrazas visit

·         Havana orientation walk

·         All transport between destinations and to/from included activities

Whats included:

Flights from Ireland to Havana

Accommodations: Hotels (4 nts), casa particulars (homestay) (3 nts).

Meals: 7 breakfasts. Allow USD285-370 for meals not included.

Transportation: Private van.

Staff & experts: Chief Experience Officer (CEO) throughout, local guides.

Including Cuban Visa

 

Cuban Music

Cuba Colonial

15 days from €2329pp

The melody of horns floating through the air, classic cars parked in colonial squares, revolutionary statues—get over the resort wall and discover the real Cuba! Travel east to Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa and encounter the birthplace of Cuban rhythms and revolutionary fervour. Soak in Spanish heritage while exploring churches, forts and cobblestoned streets. Overnight in homestays for an immersive Cuban experience few travellers get to enjoy. Don't just walk down the road less travelled—dance down it. Viva la Revolución!

On the balcony in Santiago de Cuba where the revolution was declared in 1961

Visit: Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Baracoa, Camagüey, Trinidad, Santa Clara

Highlights:

·         Castillo del Morro entrance and visit

·         Santiago de Cuba orientation walk

·         Trinidad orientation walk

·         Salsa lesson

·         Che Guevara mausoleum and museum visit

·         Old Havana walking tour

·         Internal flight

·         All transport between destinations and to/from included activities

What’s included:

Flights from Ireland to Havana

Accommodations: Hotels (2 nts), casa particulars (homestay) (12 nts).

Meals: 12 breakfasts, 1 dinner. Allow USD410-535 for meals not included.

Transportation: Private van, plane, walking.

Staff & experts: Chief Experience Officer (CEO) throughout, local guides.

Including Cuban Visa

Cuba – 5* Honeymoon

Flights from Dublin, Taxes

Transfers from Havana by Road to Varadero

7 Night Accommodation at the 5* Paradisus Princesa del Mar

All Inclusive is €1659pp

Including Cuban Visa

Departs: 13^th September

I had such a great time at the Princessa del Mar that I sent my characters there
in my novel One Kiss in Havana - lovely honeymoon hotel too!

From September this year American Airlines will have flights operating into Varadero so depending on the time of year, we’ll be able to fly passengers Ex Dublin or Shannon say into Charlotte and onto Varadero, knocking out Havana and that road transfer. However, part of the charm of Cuba is really seeing Havana so doing a twin centre is easily done, say 2/3 nights in Havana and then 5/6 nights down in Varadero

Trailfinders have cycling tours for the more adventurous.

For more information call

Dublin Travel Centre: 01  677 7888

Cork Travel Centre: 021 464 8800

Limerick Travel Centre: 061 292 700

 Cuban Highlights Ride, 7 nights, February 2017, from €2499 pp

Don your Lycra and pump up the tyre with a Trailfinders cycling holiday! This ride through Cuba will allow you to get off the beaten track, access areas where vehicles dare not venture and immerse yourself in the stunning scenery and friendly culture. On this adventure experience Central Cuba’s most cultural and historically rich cities, including Havana, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, and the Bay of Pigs.

Cycle along the spectacular Bay of Pigs, through fascinating cities and beautiful countryside as you enjoy the breathtaking scenery, the colourful people and get to know the history of this remarkable country. With a variety of terrains and tracks, the Cuban countryside is a cycle-lover’s paradise. This trip will allow you to travel back in time and experience the authentic daily life of Cuba’s rural inhabitants. 

This vibrant Caribbean island is full of contrasts, from beautiful beaches and tropical sun to crumbling but opulent architecture, cigar-smoking Cubans who groove to salsa beats in the streets, and a revolutionary history of both triumph and oppression.  This active cycling adventure will allow you to explore a side of this island few get to know.

Price includes: return flights to Havana with Virgin Atlantic, 7 nights hotels, experienced tour leader throughout & support vehicle, all breakfasts, 4 lunches & 3 dinners, bike hire and Cuban Tourist Card.

Heartbeat of Havana

Nine years have passed since my last visit to Havana. I was so enthralled by this romantic city that on my return I wrote the novel One Kiss in Havana. I've yet to find a better setting for a book.

Riding the Malecon in a Buick

Havana is a rhythm, a heartbeat that either resonates with you or pounds with a loud din.  

It's difficult not to be passionate about this place. I am sitting in the back of a vintage red Buick and wondering why I left it so long to return. Luis is driving the car that takes me from Miramar to the old town and he joyously informs me that he works for himself. Wearing a cowboy hat, sunglasses and a wide smile he explains that his father was handed down this car from his father. Pre 1959 Cars were one of the few possessions that the population were allowed to own after the Revolution. Luis works it from dawn to dusk giving the government $100 CUC (Cuban convertible pesos) per month as well as 10% of everything that he earns. The Cubans have a two tier currency - CUCs for the tourist population and purchasing luxury items and the peso for use by the general population. Luis has embraced this new way of doing business but goes on to tell me that on the down side he has to pay for his own gas.

The streets are more carefully manicured than I remember and the sweeping water-fronted Malecon is looking exceptional clean and freshly painted. The president, Raul Castro and Unesco have put a huge amount of investment in to maintaining the city's unique architecture. The roads however are still potholed and this means Luis takes the car on a bumpy, zigzag course. "You sometimes get a massage for free in this car," he jokes. He takes my photo before I pay him $20 and then merrily sets off, adding that he hopes someday to own a Honda!

At the Cathedral Cristobel

The famous Bodegita del Medio, where Hemmingway enjoyed his Mojitos is the very same as it was in 2006 and I fruitlessly search for my signature on the blue walls, covered by years of graffiti. It's an impossible task so this time I take a photo to remind me where I sign my name. Many authors and musicians have passed through these doors including the great Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

My mojito at the Bodegita del Medio

As I make my way along Calle Obispo I'm startled by the subtle changes, there is an industrious air about the locals that was not there before. Some things however do not change and toiletries are still rationed so I bring along a bag filled with shampoo and soap from my hotel room and distribute them to passersby along with some pens. Even sachets of hotel room coffee are greatly appreciated.  Calle Obispo runs from Parc Central to the Malecon and is a good indicator of how the old town is doing − the stink is gone so maybe there have been renovations to the sewer system too.  I pop in to see the Ambos Mundos Hotel where Hemmingway lived from 1932 to 1939 and anyone can visit his room which is maintained in its original state for $5.

Nao restaurant Paladeras

At Cristobel Cathedral old ladies still wear white turbans and long lace dresses as they sell knitted dolls. I stop off in Nao, one of the new breed of self owned paladares (restaurants set in local homes) and am instantly impressed by the welcome and decor. "It's happy hour," the barman Johnny says. He insists that I sit at the bar and drink a Mojito, while a trio of musicians serenade. Although there are only six tables set, it is cosy and the menu offers a wide range of delicacies including octopus and rabbit. Johnny says the fish they use is all freshly taken off the fishing boats every morning. Like Luis his enthusiasm for his work is in complete contrast to the laid back service I found in the state owned restaurants in the past.

Cuban transport

With a little sadness I leave Havana next day to explore more of the countryside.  This agrarian landscape is how I imagine rural Ireland must have appeared to visiting Americans in the 1950s and 60s. I pass small shacks, tumbledown houses with a slap of paint here and there and goats and hens roaming the gardens. The fields vary in size and undulate in most cases as the tractors are saved for the larger centrally owned farms. It's common to find tall palm trees standing in the middle of a field.

It is a four hour bus ride to Cayo Coco and the archipelago of wetlands that make up the Jardins Del Rey, named The Gardens of the King by Columbus after his arrival in Cuba. These mangroves are joined to the mainland by a seventeen kilometre causeway. The Melia group have opened a new four star all-inclusive resort with the same name and it has prime location on the unspoilt waterfront.  This is a much smaller resort than the more widely visited Varadero beach. A white sandy beach runs along the back of the hotel. Every little comfort is included in the hotel package as Pedro and his donkey patrol the beach handing out beers and soft drinks to the hard-pressed sunbathers.

portable bar, the Melia at Cayo Coco

Next day I take a trip with Gaviota tours on a Catamaran. As we set sail wild dolphins swim past. This is the Caribbean at its best. The catamaran anchors close to a coral reef and it's time for snorkelling. These are the moments that I will dream about on rainy winter days. As the warm breeze kisses my cheek and the velvety turquoise sea beckons I take a sip from my Cuba Libre and smile. This cocktail of White Rum and Cola was given its name by Americans who flooded the country after the expulsion of the Spanish in 1898. Ideally the mix of the Cuban Rum and American Coke symbolised the new free Cuba, hence the name Cuba Libre. But it wasn't the case as Cuba became a playground for rich Americans. However after the revolution headed by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara some staples remained and this drink is one of them.

A week is easy to fill by the beach if a sun holiday is what you want but I'm on my way to Santiago de Cuba so I start the long voyage via my next stop at the city of Camaguey. This is a clean and beautifully preserved city. It is different from Havana with more surreys and bicycles than old Cadillacs.  The winding labyrinth of streets, hide a cornucopia of talented artists exhibiting their work and an abundance of clay pots that the city is famous for. That night I stay at Santa Lucia where the waters are bath temperature and shallow. I check in at the lively Brisas resort and embrace the beach. Reluctantly next day I set off by bus and the roads become more sporadic − many have evolved into mounds of clay. It is rainy season but the rains haven't travelled down to this part of the countryside yet and there are serious concerns about the drought.

Camaguey

The journey through the spine of Cuba is fascinating as the locals pile in and out of cooperative cars. Every horse and cart is packed to capacity and good humour accompanies the travellers as they set off. My next stop is Holguin where the local beers Cristal and Bucanero are brewed. The landscape changes the further south I travel and bumps rise out of the landscape. This city is crowned with a sacred site and terrific viewpoint from Loma de la Cruz. I pay homage to patron St Lazarus temple at the foot of a large cross and breath in the panoramic view.

Holguin

The rest of the journey towards Santiago de Cuba involves passing through El Cobre and the contrasting mountainous landscape. Cuba's second town has similar attractions to those found in Havana and is celebrating its 500th year since the Spanish founded it. The Tropicana cabaret is a wonderful excursion and the dancers come out into the crowd and perform the conga at the end of the show. The Casa de la Musica has a venue in Santiago de Cuba also and many of the original Buena Vista Social Club hailed from this town. San Pedro de la Roca Morro Castle has one of the best views over the city so I stop and dine in El Morro restaurant and sit in Paul Mc Cartney's chair which has been engraved since his visit. It's pointless to compare the cities any further without getting into a Dublin Versus Cork style debate. Santiago de Cuba is a beautiful city that stands alone and has the unique advantage of being the original site where Castro declared the socialist state on January 1st 1959.

The balcony in Santiago de Cuba, from where Fidel declared the revolution in 1959

It is over 900 Kilometers from Santiago de Cuba back to Havana so I take an ATR42 with Cubanacan tours back to the capital. This island, the biggest in the Caribbean will not be ignored. Change will come to Cuba as the doors open and embargo is lifted however I think this change will be slow. My advice is to get there before it does.

At the Tropicana

Michelle Jackson is author of One Kiss in Havana published by Poolbeg Press and available on www.amazon.co.uk for more information see www.michellejackson.ie

Factfile

For more information about Cuba see www.travel2cuba.co.uk

Air France flies from Dublin to Havana via Paris with return fares starting from €812 including all taxes and fees. For more information and to book, visit www.airfrance.co.uk.

Havana & Varadero twin centre holiday, 9 nights from €1689 (per person based on 2 people sharing)
2 nights at the 4-star Melia Cohiba, Havana & 7 nights at the 4-star Melia Peninsula Varadero,
Includes flights from Dublin to Havana via Paris with Air France, all transfers to, from & between hotels, breakfast in Havana & all inclusive in Varadero.
Valid for selected September 2015 departures.  

Trailfinders Tailormade Holidays:  Dublin 01 677 7888, Cork 021 464 8800 & Limerick 061 292 700  http://www.trailfinders.ie/