California Dreaming!

Published in the Sunday World Magazine 7th June 2015

Our dream car from Sixt Car rental on the Pacific Coast Highway

A Family Road Trip could well be a recipe for disaster, especially with a wifi obsessed teen and tween. So, I make sure that our route from Los Angeles to San Francisco is dotted with internet friendly hotels. Our trusty steed is a comfortable Volvo jeep from Sixt car rentals − it's easy to book online and organise its return to an alternate city. 

The Pacific Park fairground at Santa Monica

The journey starts at Santa Monica as we check-in to the super trendy Shore Hotel. We are offered a glass of champagne on arrival and slip out to the pool with the best view on Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue. There's so much more to this town than pristine beaches. Third Street Promenade hosts great stores and eateries with sculpted dinosaurs and animal trees. We hire bikes from Perry's Cafe which has rentals dotted along Ocean Front Walk. As we take the winding bicycle path to Venice Beach my daughter Nicole is instantly swayed towards the henna tattoos. 

Venus Beach by bike

A cacophony of buskers, Bob Marley and entertainment from a $5 freakshow beckon, but we keep peddling. We are part of bohemia and this teenage heaven gets a cool thumbs-up.
Back on Santa Monica Pier there's lots to do at the retro Pacific Park fairground complete with wooden rollercoasters and the absolute end of the road signpost for route 66. Inspired by the body builders and svelte-like models on rollerskates whizzing past, we take the healthy option to eat at the True Food Kitchen. Mouth-watering smoothies with Kale and mangos wash down our grass-fed-beef burgers.

The end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier

Bus tour of LA is best way to get around

A bus tour is the best way to get our bearings in the sprawling LA metropolis. We take the long established Starline Tours red route from the Chinese theatre. Rodeo drive is a decadent display of over indulgence and even the Pretty Woman factor doesn't entice us to get off the bus. Instead the kids love the upbeat graffiti covered stores on Melrose and funky eateries like Pinks Hot Dogs. We spend ages walking along Hollywood Boulevard while the kids search for their favourite stars. California is theme park paradise and we opt for Universal Studios. We jump on the newest rollercoaster rides and end up drenched at some old jewels like Jurassic Park and the stunt show Waterworld. We move in to the city centre next night to stay at the Radisson Midtown Hotel situated close to Staples Centre. I bought tickets on line for a Lakers basketball game and we find ourselves rubbing shoulders with the kid's favourite actor, Will Ferrell.

At Universal studios

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Fess Parker hotel in Santa Barbara

One night isn't enough in this cosy haven that smacks of old Andalucia but we set off again. 'Look at the lovely wine-gardens,' the tween points out on the road to San Luis Obispo. Our hotel at Apple Farm is fantastic for families and we are greeted on arrival with a glass of local wine and warm chocolate chip cookies. 

We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.

Bubblegum Alley San Luis Obispo

The rooms in our family suite are adjoined and cosy, decorated with vintage-apple-crate design. Downtown San Luis is home to Bubblegum Alley − my daughter informs me that her favourite Youtubers have been here. We can smell the sweet sickly stench of chewed gum as we approach it. Some people choose to leave notes and other mementos attached to their gum but my crew just stick a blob on the wall. Ideal for families SLO boasts the stunning Pismo Beach and famous Hearst Castle nearby. We get up early next morning to eat breakfast at Morro Bay.

Lovely Apple Farm hotel San Luis Obispo

 A mound protrudes just outside the harbour like a giant weathered sandcastle that the tide forgot to take out and a skateboard museum amuses the kids for a while. As we cruise along Big Sur the kids never once ask, 'Are we nearly there yet?' The waves are a shade of turquoise blue that only the ocean can mix up. Big Sur is more a state of mind or rite of passage than a destination and we are delighted that the kids 'get it!' We stop at a gallery and restaurant for a chance to ponder the glorious three hour drive we have taken.

Cannery Row in Monterey

We are fully in our stride as we cruise in to Monterey and John Steinbeck country. Yes, Cannery Row is a 'tourist trap' but no longer 'a stink' as described by the author of the same novel. Instead the profuse aromas of warm chowder and homemade ice-cream fill the air. Monterey Bay Aquarium is a thrill for the kids and the little sea otters give displays of affection as they twist and turn on to their backs. The colourful jelly fish are a must see. Later we dine at the delicious Beach House restaurant at Lovers Bay − named after the religious pilgrims who came to this site to pray rather than the other kind of lovers.

Moneterey Bay Aquarium

Beach house restaurant in Monterey

Next morning I insist that my teen gets to know Steinbeck, after all he has read The Pearl. We eat lunch at Steinbeck House where the author was born and lived as a boy. It is lovingly preserved and run by the volunteers of Valley Guild who have created a welcoming restaurant. With appetites sated, the Steinbeck Center is only a stone's throw away on Main Street, Salinas. Here the author's work comes to life as we are treated to memorabilia and clips from the movies East of Eden and the Grapes of Wrath amongst others. I have to be dragged away by the family from my homage and ninety minutes later we are driving in to San Francisco. The San Remo hotel is over 100 years old and houses the atmospheric Dior d'Italia restaurant which has been around since1886. We are serenaded by wonderful live jazz as we dine on authentic Italian cuisine.

Entertainment at the San Remo Hotel

Shopping in Chinatown

There is so much to do in San Francisco it’s difficult to choose. Alcatraz is a must see and the audio tour takes us through every step of the cell-block. It's pricey but book online to avoid the queues. Later we hire bikes to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take in the overwhelming views of the bay and Marin County. Muir Woods, with Redwood trees stretching over 250 feet high is a great way to spend the day on the other side of the bay. We stop off in Mill Valley for lunch, a nice alternative to the bustling Sausalito.

Tram in San Fran

The Westin St Francis Union Square

We move into the Westin St Francis Hotel − an iconic landmark in Union Square and close to Westfield shopping centre with all the brands kid's love. It’s a stone's throw from Chinatown and probably the best location in the city. Our rooms are comfortable and modern - everything expected from a leading four star property. 

At the Golden Gate Bridge

Our CityPass assures entry into the main attractions including all transport options. We take a wooden tram from outside our hotel down to Pier 39 and dine at Pier Market restaurant. The fun packed Exploratorium and Madame Tussauds fill up the next day and all too soon we've reached the end of the road. 

Shopping in San Fran is great fun!

CityPass for SoCal and San Francisco can be purchased at www.CityPass.com

SoCal CityPass includes entry into the four big theme parks.

San Francisco CityPass includes all transport systems and entry into key attractions

Sixt Car rental 'Rent Luxury Pay Economy' see Website: http://www.sixt.com/car-rental/usa/santa-monica-ca/santa-monica-ocean-avenue

To get started go to www.sanfrancisco.travel and www.discoverlosangeles.com

Sightseeing Bus Tours see www.starlinetours.com

The Shore hotel, Santa Monica www.shorehotel.com

Radisson midtown http://www.radisson.com/los-angeles-hotel-ca-90007/cafiguer

For more about San Luis Obispo www.slo.org

To stay at Apple Farm www.applefarm.com

Moneterey www.seemonterey.org

To learn more about The Steinbeck House see http://steinbeckhouse.com/

For more on The San Remo Hotel see www.Sanremohotel.com

For information on Muir woods visit www.marincounty.com

The Westin St Francis Hotel website is at http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin

Flight details:

United Airlines will launch a daily nonstop service between Dublin and its Chicago hub, O'Hare International Airport, during the period Jun 5th, to Aug 18th (both dates westbound)

The lead in fare to LAX (through Chicago) and home from SFO (through Newark) ex Dublin - €620.25 per person. This includes the tax and fuel surcharge. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252. 

Cannery Row in Monterey....

Old sardine factory now converted

Cannery Row in Monterey is no longer a stink, as the author John Steinbeck portrayed this once important centre of sardine fishing. Steinbeck's novel Cannery Row is 70 years old this year and this part of Monterey was the source for his own literary inspiration. I'd been warned that Cannery Row is over commercialised without a trace of the world that Steinbeck immersed himself so many decades ago but I have to say in my excitement that I wasn't disappointed.

Monterey Bay and Cannery Row

The strip of road that is now maintained with comfortable hotels and bijou eateries and boutiques is peppered with atmosphere. Maybe it is the romantic in me that easily conjures up images of John Steinbeck and his friend the marine biologist, Ed Rickets shooting the breeze over the cool blue bay.

Steinbeck statue

Formerly Wang chung market

One of my favourite stops is the souvenir store formerly called Wang Chung Market - I picture Steinbeck's character Lee Chong behind the counter serving out some 'old tennis shoes whiskey' but in his place could well be his pretty Asian great-grand-daughter selling crystals and incense.

The stench that Steinbeck wrote about has wafted across the bay and is replaced by the smells of chocolate, warm waffles and creamy chowder. My children are fascinated by the ice cream store and want to explore the Aquarium. It's a spacious building that draws us gently through the history bit and in to the real action. The sea otters, sharks and touch pools abound and it's a place where the whole family get lost for an hour.
We dine at Lover's Point and our host at the Beach House restaurant informs us that the lovers who came here in the nineteenth century were Christians who choose this spot to praise the Lord. The view is spectacular and food of the high standard we have come to expect as we have travelled up the Pacific Coast Highway.

At the Beach House Monterey

The Monterey Bay area is filled with places to pay respects to the great author John Steinbeck and only a twenty minute journey from Salinas, the town where he was born and spent a much of his life. The main street is now home to the Steinbeck centre which is well worth a visit with artefacts that the author owned. Including the truck that he used in his travels across the country with his poodle Charley. The house where he was born is now a restored and much loved restaurant run by dedicated local people who give their time freely to ensure its continued upkeep. The food is delicious and the family are wrapped up with nostalgic mementos that we will be able to take with us back home.

The room where Steinbeck was born

Steinbeck House and restaurant

Steinbeck house

The land around Salinas is known as the salad bowl of america. Fields stretch into the manicured yonder ending at the lilac tinted mountains in the distance. It's still very much the beautiful rural land that attracted so many from the dust bowl in the thirties. The curator at the Steinbeck Centre tells me that his grand-father came from Oklahoma during those years as we pass by the display for the Grapes of Wrath. California is in its fourth year of drought and this year heralds another very dry summer. Steinbeck's thought provoking novels and messages appear to be just as relevant today and they were when he wrote them. It is wonderful to see his legacy respected and accessible for literary fans who chose to visit from all over the world.

Taking the kids to the Steinbeck Center is the perfect way to bring literature to life.

For more information visit the The Monterey Visitors Bureau at this website see monterey
The Beach House restaurant website http://www.beachhousepg.com/
Don't miss out - visit The Steinbeck House - http://steinbeckhouse.com/
The visitors centre is on Main Street Salinas http://www.steinbeck.org/