Published in the Sunday World Magazine 7th June 2015
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| Our dream car from Sixt Car rental on the Pacific Coast Highway |
A Family Road Trip could well be a recipe for disaster, especially with a wifi obsessed teen and tween. So, I make sure that our route from Los Angeles to San Francisco is dotted with internet friendly hotels. Our trusty steed is a comfortable Volvo jeep from Sixt car rentals − it's easy to book online and organise its return to an alternate city.
The journey starts at Santa Monica as we check-in to the super trendy Shore Hotel. We are offered a glass of champagne on arrival and slip out to the pool with the best view on Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue. There's so much more to this town than pristine beaches. Third Street Promenade hosts great stores and eateries with sculpted dinosaurs and animal trees. We hire bikes from Perry's Cafe which has rentals dotted along Ocean Front Walk. As we take the winding bicycle path to Venice Beach my daughter Nicole is instantly swayed towards the henna tattoos.
A cacophony of buskers, Bob Marley and entertainment from a $5 freakshow beckon, but we keep peddling. We are part of bohemia and this teenage heaven gets a cool thumbs-up.
Back on Santa Monica Pier there's lots to do at the retro Pacific Park fairground complete with wooden rollercoasters and the absolute end of the road signpost for route 66. Inspired by the body builders and svelte-like models on rollerskates whizzing past, we take the healthy option to eat at the True Food Kitchen. Mouth-watering smoothies with Kale and mangos wash down our grass-fed-beef burgers.
A bus tour is the best way to get our bearings in the sprawling LA metropolis. We take the long established Starline Tours red route from the Chinese theatre. Rodeo drive is a decadent display of over indulgence and even the Pretty Woman factor doesn't entice us to get off the bus. Instead the kids love the upbeat graffiti covered stores on Melrose and funky eateries like Pinks Hot Dogs. We spend ages walking along Hollywood Boulevard while the kids search for their favourite stars. California is theme park paradise and we opt for Universal Studios. We jump on the newest rollercoaster rides and end up drenched at some old jewels like Jurassic Park and the stunt show Waterworld. We move in to the city centre next night to stay at the Radisson Midtown Hotel situated close to Staples Centre. I bought tickets on line for a Lakers basketball game and we find ourselves rubbing shoulders with the kid's favourite actor, Will Ferrell.
We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.
We wave goodbye to LA and start our drive along the Pacific Coast Highway. Highway One takes us past Malibu mansions and the crystal blue coastline. Soon we start to climb the winding roads through the national parklands en route to our first stop at Santa Barbara. We check-in at the Fess Parker by Double Tree which is situated on the seafront and a great location to explore State Street and the pier. The kids hit the hot tub and I take the opportunity to stroll on the Mediterranean-like seafront, as Donald Trump and his entourage jog past.
The rooms in our family suite are adjoined and cosy, decorated with vintage-apple-crate design. Downtown San Luis is home to Bubblegum Alley − my daughter informs me that her favourite Youtubers have been here. We can smell the sweet sickly stench of chewed gum as we approach it. Some people choose to leave notes and other mementos attached to their gum but my crew just stick a blob on the wall. Ideal for families SLO boasts the stunning Pismo Beach and famous Hearst Castle nearby. We get up early next morning to eat breakfast at Morro Bay.
A mound protrudes just outside the harbour like a giant weathered sandcastle that the tide forgot to take out and a skateboard museum amuses the kids for a while. As we cruise along Big Sur the kids never once ask, 'Are we nearly there yet?' The waves are a shade of turquoise blue that only the ocean can mix up. Big Sur is more a state of mind or rite of passage than a destination and we are delighted that the kids 'get it!' We stop at a gallery and restaurant for a chance to ponder the glorious three hour drive we have taken.
We are fully in our stride as we cruise in to Monterey and John Steinbeck country. Yes, Cannery Row is a 'tourist trap' but no longer 'a stink' as described by the author of the same novel. Instead the profuse aromas of warm chowder and homemade ice-cream fill the air. Monterey Bay Aquarium is a thrill for the kids and the little sea otters give displays of affection as they twist and turn on to their backs. The colourful jelly fish are a must see. Later we dine at the delicious Beach House restaurant at Lovers Bay − named after the religious pilgrims who came to this site to pray rather than the other kind of lovers.
Next morning I insist that my teen gets to know Steinbeck, after all he has read The Pearl. We eat lunch at Steinbeck House where the author was born and lived as a boy. It is lovingly preserved and run by the volunteers of Valley Guild who have created a welcoming restaurant. With appetites sated, the Steinbeck Center is only a stone's throw away on Main Street, Salinas. Here the author's work comes to life as we are treated to memorabilia and clips from the movies East of Eden and the Grapes of Wrath amongst others. I have to be dragged away by the family from my homage and ninety minutes later we are driving in to San Francisco. The San Remo hotel is over 100 years old and houses the atmospheric Dior d'Italia restaurant which has been around since1886. We are serenaded by wonderful live jazz as we dine on authentic Italian cuisine.
We move into the Westin St Francis Hotel − an iconic landmark in Union Square and close to Westfield shopping centre with all the brands kid's love. It’s a stone's throw from Chinatown and probably the best location in the city. Our rooms are comfortable and modern - everything expected from a leading four star property.
Our CityPass assures entry into the main attractions including all transport options. We take a wooden tram from outside our hotel down to Pier 39 and dine at Pier Market restaurant. The fun packed Exploratorium and Madame Tussauds fill up the next day and all too soon we've reached the end of the road.
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| The Pacific Park fairground at Santa Monica |
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| Venus Beach by bike |
A cacophony of buskers, Bob Marley and entertainment from a $5 freakshow beckon, but we keep peddling. We are part of bohemia and this teenage heaven gets a cool thumbs-up.
Back on Santa Monica Pier there's lots to do at the retro Pacific Park fairground complete with wooden rollercoasters and the absolute end of the road signpost for route 66. Inspired by the body builders and svelte-like models on rollerskates whizzing past, we take the healthy option to eat at the True Food Kitchen. Mouth-watering smoothies with Kale and mangos wash down our grass-fed-beef burgers.
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The end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier |
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| Bus tour of LA is best way to get around |
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| At Universal studios |
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Fess Parker hotel in Santa Barbara
One night isn't enough in this cosy haven that smacks of old Andalucia but we set off again. 'Look at the lovely wine-gardens,' the tween points out on the road to San Luis Obispo. Our hotel at Apple Farm is fantastic for families and we are greeted on arrival with a glass of local wine and warm chocolate chip cookies.
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| Bubblegum Alley San Luis Obispo |
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| Lovely Apple Farm hotel San Luis Obispo |
A mound protrudes just outside the harbour like a giant weathered sandcastle that the tide forgot to take out and a skateboard museum amuses the kids for a while. As we cruise along Big Sur the kids never once ask, 'Are we nearly there yet?' The waves are a shade of turquoise blue that only the ocean can mix up. Big Sur is more a state of mind or rite of passage than a destination and we are delighted that the kids 'get it!' We stop at a gallery and restaurant for a chance to ponder the glorious three hour drive we have taken.
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| Cannery Row in Monterey |
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| Moneterey Bay Aquarium |
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| Beach house restaurant in Monterey |
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| Entertainment at the San Remo Hotel |
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| Shopping in Chinatown
There is so much to do in San Francisco it’s difficult to choose. Alcatraz is a must see and the audio tour takes us through every step of the cell-block. It's pricey but book online to avoid the queues. Later we hire bikes to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take in the overwhelming views of the bay and Marin County. Muir Woods, with Redwood trees stretching over 250 feet high is a great way to spend the day on the other side of the bay. We stop off in Mill Valley for lunch, a nice alternative to the bustling Sausalito.
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| Tram in San Fran |
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| The Westin St Francis Union Square |
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| At the Golden Gate Bridge |
Our CityPass assures entry into the main attractions including all transport options. We take a wooden tram from outside our hotel down to Pier 39 and dine at Pier Market restaurant. The fun packed Exploratorium and Madame Tussauds fill up the next day and all too soon we've reached the end of the road.
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| Shopping in San Fran is great fun! |
CityPass for SoCal and San Francisco can be purchased at www.CityPass.com
SoCal CityPass includes entry into the four big theme parks.
San Francisco CityPass includes all transport systems and entry into key attractions
Sixt Car rental 'Rent Luxury Pay Economy' see Website: http://www.sixt.com/car-rental/usa/santa-monica-ca/santa-monica-ocean-avenue
To get started go to www.sanfrancisco.travel and www.discoverlosangeles.com
Sightseeing Bus Tours see www.starlinetours.com
The Shore hotel, Santa Monica www.shorehotel.com
Radisson midtown http://www.radisson.com/los-angeles-hotel-ca-90007/cafiguer
For more about San Luis Obispo www.slo.org
To stay at Apple Farm www.applefarm.com
Moneterey www.seemonterey.org
To learn more about The Steinbeck House see http://steinbeckhouse.com/
For more on The San Remo Hotel see www.Sanremohotel.com
For information on Muir woods visit www.marincounty.com
The Westin St Francis Hotel website is at http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin
Flight details:
United Airlines will launch a daily nonstop service between Dublin and its Chicago hub, O'Hare International Airport, during the period Jun 5th, to Aug 18th (both dates westbound)
The lead in fare to LAX (through Chicago) and home from SFO (through Newark) ex Dublin - €620.25 per person. This includes the tax and fuel surcharge. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252.
New York has to be the perfect city for a girlie weekend. So, when my daughter Nicole, recently turned double digits, we set off for three nights to celebrate. We took a United Airlines direct-flight from Dublin to Newark and treated ourselves to some extra leg space for $60. With personalised entertainment systems, I was able to catch up on all the latest movies – from Wolf of Wall Street to American Hustle, while Nicole enjoyed Disney’s Frozen and other kids’ classics. The airplane journey was an adventure in itself, and I wasn’t asked once, “Are we there yet?” As we descended over Mahattan and the Statue of Liberty came into view Nicole gasped, “It’s tiny Mum!”
Nicole couldn’t wait to visit the American Girl store on Fifth Avenue. So, after dropping our bags in the Radisson Martinique Hotel, we set off to see what damage we could do with my credit card. The American Girl brand is a subsidiary of the Mattel group and its products reflect a variety of historical American Girls. With 60 personalised faces to choose from, your daughter can have her very own 18” doll that looks just like her. Dolls retail at $110 but you need to spend a lot more on accessories to have your daughter and doll co-ordinating. We were shown around by our personal shopper, Anne from Kentucky, who discreetly asked what our budget was. This was a good thing, as it would be very easy for a mother to lose the run of herself in a store that has everything her little girl desires. We decided to treat Nicole’s doll to a hairdo and ear piercing. Then the doll got a new outfit and a pet dog. We were meeting our friends for dinner, and booked into the American Girl Cafe on the third floor, for the ultimate finale to our shopping experience. Nicole’s doll got her own high-chair, and the food was delicious and reasonably priced – at $26 pp for three-courses.
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| Dinner at the American Girl Cafe |
After dinner we took a stroll around the Rockefeller ice-rink, where there was an exhibition of decorated-giant eggs on display. We walked back to our hotel via the bright lights of Times Square, and took a photo of The Real Naked Cowboy. With our biological clocks on Irish Time, we were relieved that our hotel was located conveniently on 32nd street and Broadway. Our room was on the top floor and large by New York standards. The Radisson Martinique is an historic hotel and the decor preserves the spirit of Beaux Arts perfectly.
Next morning the Buffet Breakfast was served in the Cafe Martinique, which whisked us to turn-of-the-twentieth-century Paris. Nicole devoured pancakes and syrup with hot chocolate, while I enjoyed a huge selection of fresh fruits, eggs and bacon. Our hotel was only two-blocks away from the Empire State Building. So, with city passes in hand, and an 8.15 start, we skipped the first line and didn’t have to wait long before we were ascending in the elevator to the 80th floor. We had a great view of the city and the Freedom Tower, which is now the tallest building in Manhattan.
A City Pass is a must buy if you want to visit the major sights and museums. Macy’s is only around the corner from the Empire State and a must see. Here, Nicole had her eyes made-up with sparkly lilac shadow, because we had a very important treat that afternoon. Mamma Mia is in its twelfth year in the Broadhurst Theatre, on Broadway, and we had tickets for the matinee presentation. It is one of Nicole’s favourite movies, so I wasn’t sure how she was going to feel about seeing it on stage. I needn’t have worried, as she was enthralled from start to finish – apart from the embarrassing moment when I got up to dance. But as the rest of the audience were bopping in the aisles, Nicole decided she should get involved too.
Next day, our friends took us on a magical drive over the Queensboro Bridge to Astoria, to check out the Museum of the Moving Image. This suburb, in Queens, is where big screen history really began. The museum holds some of the most notable memorabilia from the movies and has plenty of interactive exhibits for kids. Nicole had fun doing a voiceover on the Wizard of Oz and making her own flick book movie. She got to see models of Yoda, Chewbacca and The Elephant Man. Afterwards we strolled down Steinway Street and enjoyed the cafe life of this booming suburb. As the Herald Square subway ran directly under our hotel, we had a quick train ride home that night. The boroughs have a lot to offer with trendy bars and boutique shops so it is worth stepping off Manhattan to explore them.
It was our last day and we had some important shops to visit. The FAO Schwarz toy store has to be every child’s dream. Nicole’s eyes were certainly bigger than her belly, as she sped around the Big Candy Store on the ground floor, collecting Wonka sweets and Gummy Bears.
The stretch down Fifth Avenue took us to more shopping heaven, but we needed our wits about us before tackling Hollister, and Abercrombie and Fitch. We queued for ten minutes, night-club-style, before gaining entry to the stores. Then I couldn’t make out the price tags, or hear myself think over the blaring music and scantily clad assistants – perhaps this was a clever ploy to distract and part of the brands success.
We had more fun in The Juicy Couture store, where everything was on 40% sale, before lunching in the Museum of Modern Art. Although Nicole loves art, I wasn’t sure how a culture blast would fit in with our agenda on this trip. Once in the museum she grabbed my camera and happily snapped her way around the Picasso’s, Van Gogh’s, Monet’s et al. She even had the energy afterwards to take a trip on the circle line cruise, and delighted in the fact that the Statue of Liberty was a good deal taller than her brother.
With a second daily-flight now available from Newark to Dublin on United Airlines, it is possible to fly home at 10pm and really make the most of your last day. We left New York with a suitcase full of shopping and a bagful of precious memories. It may be extravagant to take a ten-year-old here, but it has to be the stuff that dreams are made of.
Facebook page is facebook.com/themartinique.com.
Rates vary seasonally, from $285.00.
Rates vary seasonally, from $285.00.
United Airlines offers a nonstop service from Dublin, Shannon and Belfast to New York-Newark Liberty International Airport. A second daily nonstop service from Dublin to New York/Newark will operate from June 6 to Aug 19th, 2014. Flights are operated by Boeing 757-200 aircraft featuring 169 seats – 16 flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst® and 153 in United Economy®, including 45 Economy Plus® seats with added legroom and increased personal space. Visit www.united.com or call 1890 925 252
NYC & Company is the official marketing, tourism and partnership organisation for the City of New York. For all there is to do and see in New York City, visit nycgo.com or call the Irish office in Dublin on +353 1 6319604.
City Pass available from http://www.citypass.com/new-york Prices from $109 per adult & $82 per child
Mamma Mia tickets can be purchased via the nycgo.com website @ http://www.nycgo.com/events/mamma-mia Tickets from $124 per person
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