The mere mention of the Seychelles conjures up images of sundrenched beaches with powder-soft-sand and turquoise blue water. It isn’t surprising that Irish brides Jennifer McGuire and Rosanna Davidson choose to enjoy their post nuptials on this delightful archipelago in the Indian Ocean. However, my husband and I are under no pretence that we are embarking on a second honeymoon, as we set off with our ten-year-old daughter, Nicole and teenage son, Mark to see what the Seychelles has to offer families. The kid’s first question – where is the Seychelles? One-thousand miles from Africa’s east coast and a couple of degrees south of the equator. Our mission as a family is to Island hop around four islands and get to meet some giant tortoises. The excitement mounts as I inform the kids that one of the islands we will be visiting is where the Thunderbirds movie was filmed.
We spend our first three nights on popular Beau Vallon Beach which is a good base to explore the Seychelles largest and most populated Island, Mahe. The five-star Savoy hotel boasts the largest swimming pool in the Seychelles, which ticks the boxes for the kids and the adjoining rooms mean privacy for parents! The kids get to fish and try their hands at kayaking but for the more adventurous diving and paragliding is also on offer.
The capital, Victoria, is only a few kilometres away and our first excursion en famille. Named after the British Queen who ruled over the islands in the nineteenth century it’s a thriving town, with high activity around the replica, silver Big Ben clock in the middle of the main street. “It’s a present from the British,” our guide Chris informs us. He’s kitted out in a Liverpool shirt and bonds instantly with my son who has found a kindred spirit. “You should see this place at carnival man...the whole town goes crazy.” Victoria plays host to a colourful carnival every year that rivals Rio. Twenty five countries took part in the festivities last year and it is ever growing. Next year it runs from 24th – 26th April and three days of fun filled action for all the family is guaranteed. Chris describes the beautiful girls from around the world wearing little more than feathers and my son already has plans to return someday. “...and we drive on the left side of the road too like the British.” The plug sockets are standard three pin as in the UK and Ireland so there’s no need for a continental adaptor.
First stop is Victoria Market – a bustling centre for all culinary delights. The kids watch aghast as a shark is portioned up at a fish stall. A variety of exotic fruits and foods are on offer and the trip is proving to be an education, even for the adults. The Seychelles is a matriarchal society, with women making up fifty percent of the government and children are adored and well catered for. The locals speak good English, but my son and I can make out a few words of the local Creole, which is a mixture of French and English.
A colourful Hindu temple catches Nicole’s eye as we leave the market. With her camera in hand, she excitedly captures the ceremony being performed by the holy men inside. Most of the Seychellois were converted to Catholicism after the erection of a mission, established by the British in the mid-nineteenth century. The lodge, on one of the islands highest points, is no longer standing but the remaining site is one of the best viewpoints on the island and Chris insists on taking us there – which doesn’t disappoint. A short drive down the hill brings us to Seychelles tea factory on Morne Blanc. Here the kids get to see the entire tea process from picking to blending and bagging in the factory.
After three days we embark on our first island hop. The journey to Praslin, the Seychelles second largest island, takes one hour on the high speed Cat Cocos catamaran. Home to the UNESCO heritage site of Vallée de Mai, the suggestion by some that Praslin is the location of the Biblical Garden of Eden comes as no surprise. This is the only place on the planet where the legendary Coco-de-Mer tree grows in abundance. The kids are quick to point out that the unusual shaped fruit bears a striking resemblance to certain private parts of the human anatomy. Praslin is paradise. Coconuts hang lushly from spindly palms and tiny orange birds, the red-headed forest fody, jump from perch to perch. On arrival at our hotel, La Domaine de La Reserve, one of these little birds lands on our porch and sings a welcoming tune. It is this kind of interaction with nature that makes us feel instantly chilled. Nicole squeals with delight as a tiny bright-green-lizard, scurries up the wall of our porch.
La Reserve hotel has four special family rooms which are stylishly kitted out with prime views of the private coral beach. Three small steps outside our veranda and we are walking on the coral sand and picking up colourful shells from the turquoise water – a shoal of silver fish brush by our ankles. This hotel is set among unique conditions that are perfect for snorkelling in safety and privacy. Wifi is on offer around the hotel but with a huge swimming pool open all day and night the kids don’t have time for social networking. Night time is spent watching out for shooting stars outside our veranda. With a half board option of varied cuisine the kids love the food. Entertainment follows dinner each evening and our favourite is the Creole evening where the entire family go native and get involved in coconut shelling and traditional dancing. The hotel offers free bike hire and we set off for some wave jumping on Anse Lazio, on what is considered by many to be the most beautiful beach in the world. The south east monsoons make May to October the windiest months but it is also the least humid time of year and perfect for the kids.
After two nights on this paradise we set off early with Creole travel on an excursion to Curieuse Island. We are met by ranger Paul – a man who loves his job, and who can blame him. He is guardian of the 200 giant tortoises who roam this once leper colony. Since 1969 it has belonged to the animals and he takes us on a trail of the mangroves and hills from one side of the Island to the doctor’s house on the other side. On route we feast on husks of coconut and berry, while hermit crabs and giant millipedes cross our path. “I made a good crab curry with a fellow like this last night,” Paul beams. We can tell that it was delicious by his description. The already digested bodammier fruit however does not appeal. The giant tortoises feast on this small purple fruit when it falls from the trees but the centre nut is left intact and apparently delicious. However, even the kids are satisfied just to take Paul’s word for it and not tempted to taste when he rips it from the tortoise pooh!
The catamaran anchors for a delicious Creole BBQ and some snorkelling before leaving us off on La Digue. At the end of an exhilarating day we have arrived on our fourth island. The rock formations on La Digue are famous. Pale pink and ochre granite forms, they rest along the crystal shoreline and look like Dali himself sculpted them for our personal pleasure.
Breadfruit hangs on every road verge, ripe for the taking – a versatile fruit that can be compared to our own potato. The breadfruit proves a big hit with Nicole. It can be chipped, boiled, fried, eaten as salad or dessert and lies scattered on the ground. Legend has it that if you eat the breadfruit you will return to the Seychelles – needless to say we schoffed bags of the crunchy fruit that are bought for 60cents each and taste like an exotic crisp. We stay in a small but exquisite family run guest house on this island that is only 5 km long and easily walked around in less than a day. The Cabanas des Anges guest house has a small swimming pool but our crew love the fact that it is right outside our veranda.
The fairy terns dive and swoon in pairs around the clear blue skies – as much a symbol of love as nature can provide. We lose ourselves in this primitive paradise where the locals commute on foot or by bicycle. The alternate mode of taxi is ox and cart and possibly the slowest but most fun way to get around the island.
We explore the famous Anse Source d’Argent beach and wonder how so many beautiful beaches can be on such a small island. Anse Source d’Argent is also the setting for those dreamy adverts for the Bounty Bar that pop up on our TV on cold winter nights. It’s easy to find a spot to ourselves and suddenly we are the Swiss Family Robinson. While Nicole and her brother play x’s and o’s on the sand with a piece of driftwood, hubby and I kick back on the sand and pretend we are on a second honeymoon.
The Seychelles is an incredible destination and worth paying that bit extra to experience something truly special for the whole family. With idyllic weather that doesn’t drop below 26* or rise above 33* every month is a perfect time of year to visit. We travelled through the night and with a convenient one stop commute to Dublin airport there were no complaints from the kids. On the cold winter nights the memories of our special time on the Seychelles will keep us warm and the Bounty Bar advert will undoubtedly bring a smile to our faces when it pops up on TV.
The Seychelles is an incredible destination and worth paying that bit extra to experience something truly special for the whole family. With idyllic weather that doesn’t drop below 26* or rise above 33* every month is a perfect time of year to visit. We travelled through the night and with a convenient one stop commute to Dublin airport there were no complaints from the kids. On the cold winter nights the memories of our special time on the Seychelles will keep us warm and the Bounty Bar advert will undoubtedly bring a smile to our faces when it pops up on TV.
Fact box
Tel: + 44 (0) 207 730 0700
Economy Class return fares, inclusive of all taxes and prices start from:
1. Adult - Euro 704
2. Adult and child aged between 2 - 11 Euro 1271
These prices are currently available for autumn 2014 and April 2015.
1. Adult - Euro 704
2. Adult and child aged between 2 - 11 Euro 1271
These prices are currently available for autumn 2014 and April 2015.
Creole Travel Services Seychelles
Creole Travel Services can facilitate all aspects of a holiday to Seychelles, from hotel reservations to flights and excursions bookings.
It ensures that clients experiences the true essence of Seychelles through its excursions which operate from Mahe, Praslin and La Digue. You can choose from a selected range of excursions, whether it is romance, adventure or family fun. Or you can even tailor your experience to your own desire.
Nine years have passed since my last visit to Havana. I was so enthralled by this romantic city that on my return I wrote the novel One Kiss in Havana. I've yet to find a better setting for a book.
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| Riding the Malecon in a Buick |
Havana is a rhythm, a heartbeat that either resonates with you or pounds with a loud din.
It's difficult not to be passionate about this place. I am sitting in the back of a vintage red Buick and wondering why I left it so long to return. Luis is driving the car that takes me from Miramar to the old town and he joyously informs me that he works for himself. Wearing a cowboy hat, sunglasses and a wide smile he explains that his father was handed down this car from his father. Pre 1959 Cars were one of the few possessions that the population were allowed to own after the Revolution. Luis works it from dawn to dusk giving the government $100 CUC (Cuban convertible pesos) per month as well as 10% of everything that he earns. The Cubans have a two tier currency - CUCs for the tourist population and purchasing luxury items and the peso for use by the general population. Luis has embraced this new way of doing business but goes on to tell me that on the down side he has to pay for his own gas.
The streets are more carefully manicured than I remember and the sweeping water-fronted Malecon is looking exceptional clean and freshly painted. The president, Raul Castro and Unesco have put a huge amount of investment in to maintaining the city's unique architecture. The roads however are still potholed and this means Luis takes the car on a bumpy, zigzag course. "You sometimes get a massage for free in this car," he jokes. He takes my photo before I pay him $20 and then merrily sets off, adding that he hopes someday to own a Honda!
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| At the Cathedral Cristobel |
The famous Bodegita del Medio, where Hemmingway enjoyed his Mojitos is the very same as it was in 2006 and I fruitlessly search for my signature on the blue walls, covered by years of graffiti. It's an impossible task so this time I take a photo to remind me where I sign my name. Many authors and musicians have passed through these doors including the great Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
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| My mojito at the Bodegita del Medio |
As I make my way along Calle Obispo I'm startled by the subtle changes, there is an industrious air about the locals that was not there before. Some things however do not change and toiletries are still rationed so I bring along a bag filled with shampoo and soap from my hotel room and distribute them to passersby along with some pens. Even sachets of hotel room coffee are greatly appreciated. Calle Obispo runs from Parc Central to the Malecon and is a good indicator of how the old town is doing − the stink is gone so maybe there have been renovations to the sewer system too. I pop in to see the Ambos Mundos Hotel where Hemmingway lived from 1932 to 1939 and anyone can visit his room which is maintained in its original state for $5.
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| Nao restaurant Paladeras |
At Cristobel Cathedral old ladies still wear white turbans and long lace dresses as they sell knitted dolls. I stop off in Nao, one of the new breed of self owned paladares (restaurants set in local homes) and am instantly impressed by the welcome and decor. "It's happy hour," the barman Johnny says. He insists that I sit at the bar and drink a Mojito, while a trio of musicians serenade. Although there are only six tables set, it is cosy and the menu offers a wide range of delicacies including octopus and rabbit. Johnny says the fish they use is all freshly taken off the fishing boats every morning. Like Luis his enthusiasm for his work is in complete contrast to the laid back service I found in the state owned restaurants in the past.
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| Cuban transport |
With a little sadness I leave Havana next day to explore more of the countryside. This agrarian landscape is how I imagine rural Ireland must have appeared to visiting Americans in the 1950s and 60s. I pass small shacks, tumbledown houses with a slap of paint here and there and goats and hens roaming the gardens. The fields vary in size and undulate in most cases as the tractors are saved for the larger centrally owned farms. It's common to find tall palm trees standing in the middle of a field.
It is a four hour bus ride to Cayo Coco and the archipelago of wetlands that make up the Jardins Del Rey, named The Gardens of the King by Columbus after his arrival in Cuba. These mangroves are joined to the mainland by a seventeen kilometre causeway. The Melia group have opened a new four star all-inclusive resort with the same name and it has prime location on the unspoilt waterfront. This is a much smaller resort than the more widely visited Varadero beach. A white sandy beach runs along the back of the hotel. Every little comfort is included in the hotel package as Pedro and his donkey patrol the beach handing out beers and soft drinks to the hard-pressed sunbathers.
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| portable bar, the Melia at Cayo Coco |
Next day I take a trip with Gaviota tours on a Catamaran. As we set sail wild dolphins swim past. This is the Caribbean at its best. The catamaran anchors close to a coral reef and it's time for snorkelling. These are the moments that I will dream about on rainy winter days. As the warm breeze kisses my cheek and the velvety turquoise sea beckons I take a sip from my Cuba Libre and smile. This cocktail of White Rum and Cola was given its name by Americans who flooded the country after the expulsion of the Spanish in 1898. Ideally the mix of the Cuban Rum and American Coke symbolised the new free Cuba, hence the name Cuba Libre. But it wasn't the case as Cuba became a playground for rich Americans. However after the revolution headed by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara some staples remained and this drink is one of them.
A week is easy to fill by the beach if a sun holiday is what you want but I'm on my way to Santiago de Cuba so I start the long voyage via my next stop at the city of Camaguey. This is a clean and beautifully preserved city. It is different from Havana with more surreys and bicycles than old Cadillacs. The winding labyrinth of streets, hide a cornucopia of talented artists exhibiting their work and an abundance of clay pots that the city is famous for. That night I stay at Santa Lucia where the waters are bath temperature and shallow. I check in at the lively Brisas resort and embrace the beach. Reluctantly next day I set off by bus and the roads become more sporadic − many have evolved into mounds of clay. It is rainy season but the rains haven't travelled down to this part of the countryside yet and there are serious concerns about the drought.
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| Camaguey |
The journey through the spine of Cuba is fascinating as the locals pile in and out of cooperative cars. Every horse and cart is packed to capacity and good humour accompanies the travellers as they set off. My next stop is Holguin where the local beers Cristal and Bucanero are brewed. The landscape changes the further south I travel and bumps rise out of the landscape. This city is crowned with a sacred site and terrific viewpoint from Loma de la Cruz. I pay homage to patron St Lazarus temple at the foot of a large cross and breath in the panoramic view.
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| Holguin |
The rest of the journey towards Santiago de Cuba involves passing through El Cobre and the contrasting mountainous landscape. Cuba's second town has similar attractions to those found in Havana and is celebrating its 500th year since the Spanish founded it. The Tropicana cabaret is a wonderful excursion and the dancers come out into the crowd and perform the conga at the end of the show. The Casa de la Musica has a venue in Santiago de Cuba also and many of the original Buena Vista Social Club hailed from this town. San Pedro de la Roca Morro Castle has one of the best views over the city so I stop and dine in El Morro restaurant and sit in Paul Mc Cartney's chair which has been engraved since his visit. It's pointless to compare the cities any further without getting into a Dublin Versus Cork style debate. Santiago de Cuba is a beautiful city that stands alone and has the unique advantage of being the original site where Castro declared the socialist state on January 1st 1959.
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| The balcony in Santiago de Cuba, from where Fidel declared the revolution in 1959 |
It is over 900 Kilometers from Santiago de Cuba back to Havana so I take an ATR42 with Cubanacan tours back to the capital. This island, the biggest in the Caribbean will not be ignored. Change will come to Cuba as the doors open and embargo is lifted however I think this change will be slow. My advice is to get there before it does.
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| At the Tropicana |
Michelle Jackson is author of One Kiss in Havana published by Poolbeg Press and available on www.amazon.co.uk for more information see www.michellejackson.ie
Factfile
For more information about Cuba see www.travel2cuba.co.uk
Air France flies from Dublin to Havana via Paris with return fares starting from €812 including all taxes and fees. For more information and to book, visit www.airfrance.co.uk.
Havana & Varadero twin centre holiday, 9 nights from €1689 (per person based on 2 people sharing)
2 nights at the 4-star Melia Cohiba, Havana & 7 nights at the 4-star Melia Peninsula Varadero,
Includes flights from Dublin to Havana via Paris with Air France, all transfers to, from & between hotels, breakfast in Havana & all inclusive in Varadero.
Valid for selected September 2015 departures.
2 nights at the 4-star Melia Cohiba, Havana & 7 nights at the 4-star Melia Peninsula Varadero,
Includes flights from Dublin to Havana via Paris with Air France, all transfers to, from & between hotels, breakfast in Havana & all inclusive in Varadero.
Valid for selected September 2015 departures.
Trailfinders Tailormade Holidays: Dublin 01 677 7888, Cork 021 464 8800 & Limerick 061 292 700 http://www.trailfinders.ie/
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